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本文利用实验室波浪水槽观测规则长波对风浪的影响。谱分析显示,较之纯风浪谱,除已被广泛关注的长波抑制风浪这一现象外,当长波波陡较小,且频率远离风浪峰频时,长波还使得风浪谱向低频移动。本文利用Longuet-Higgins&Stewart(1960)理论,并考虑到风浪破碎的约束,计算了规则长波的存在对风浪谱的影响,发现可以较好地解释这一现象。这一工作表明,当长波波陡小且频率远离风浪峰频时,长波对短波的二阶调制及其引起的破碎加强可能是长波影响风浪的主要机制。
In this paper, we use the laboratory wave flume to observe the influence of long wave on the wave. Spectral analysis shows that in addition to the phenomenon of longwave suppression of wind and waves, which has been widely concerned, when the steepness of the longwave is small and the frequency is far away from the peak of the windwave, the longwave also causes the windwave spectrum to move towards the low frequency. In this paper, we use the Longuet-Higgins & Stewart (1960) theory and consider the constraint of the wave breaking, and calculate the influence of the long wave rule on the wind wave spectrum. We find that this phenomenon can be well explained. This work shows that the second-order modulation of the longwave to the shortwave and its resulting fragmentation strengthening may be the primary mechanism by which the longwave affects the storms when the longwaves are steep and the frequencies are far away from the peak and peak frequencies.