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一、引言 对目前仍广为使用的压力测波仪来说,如何通过波浪在某深度处的压力信息来推算海面的波浪状况呢?根据深水小振幅简单波动的经典理论,关系式H_o=H_z exp[kz]成立,式中H_o、H_z分别表示海面和水深z处的波高。将这一关系式应用于实际资料,则由波浪压力记录可以求出H_z、T_z(或λ_z),再由记录的深度z就可以求出H_o。但是人们发现这样计算出的H_o和同时在海面观测到的H_o之间有着系统性的偏差,这就产生了使用补偿系数n的问题,即H_o=nH_z×exp[Kz)。对于水深为d的浅水则有H_o=nH_z×ch kd/chk(d
I. INTRODUCTION For the pressure wavemeter which is still widely used, how to calculate the wave condition of the sea surface based on the pressure information of the wave at a certain depth? According to the classical theory of the simple fluctuation of the small amplitude of deep water, the relation H_o = H_z exp [kz] holds, where H_o and H_z denote the wave heights at sea surface and water depth z, respectively. Applying this relation to the actual data, H_z and T_z (or λ_z) can be obtained from the wave pressure records, and H_o can be obtained from the recorded depth z. However, it has been found that there is a systematic deviation between the H_o calculated in this way and the H_o observed at sea at the same time, which leads to the problem of using the compensation coefficient n, that is, H_o = nH_z × exp [Kz]. For shallow water with depth d, H_o = nH_z × ch kd / chk (d