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沿岸输沙是沙质海岸产生变形的一个主要因素,而波浪引起的沿岸流是沿岸泥沙搬运的主要动力。对于波浪斜向入射引起的沿岸流与沿岸输沙率已经进行了许多研究工作,取得了很大的进展。然而,当波浪从深水进入浅水并接近海岸时,由于不规则地形的折射影响,波高在岸线上的分布往往是不平均的。特别是当海岸上修建了海岸建筑物,或海岸上有突出的岩岬,或离岸不远处有小岛时,在建筑物、岩岬或小岛背后的掩护区,波浪发生绕射,沿岸线
Coastal sediment transport is a major factor in the deformation of the sandy coast, and wave-induced coastal flow is the main driving force for sediment transport along the coast. Much research work has been done on the coastal flow and coastal sediment transport caused by the oblique incidence of waves, and great progress has been made. However, as the waves move from shallow to shallow waters and close to the shore, the distribution of wave heights over the shoreline tends to be uneven due to the refraction of irregular terrains. Especially when coast buildings are built on the coast or there are prominent rocky promontories on the coast, or when there is a small island not far offshore, the waves are diffracted at the buildings, rocky promontories, or shelters behind the island,