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在常动量通量海面风漂流层内,基于所导出的海浪能量和涡度变化首次积分与破碎的运动学判据和数学合理性判据,推演出一致的破碎海面起伏表示和海浪破碎发生条件,从而用Heaviside函数组合的方法给出破碎海浪海面起伏的函数表达式.基于所导出的破碎海浪海面起伏函数表达式和海浪总是小波陡的事实,提出一种包括基底海浪、弱非线性海浪和破碎海浪的海浪海面起伏三重复合函数表示.海浪的三重复合函数表示和基底海浪的正态分布律的总合,就是所提出的海浪海面起伏统计数学物理模型.
Based on the derived kinematic criterion and mathematical rationality of the first integral and crushing of the wave energy and vorticity changes derived from the constant flux flux sea surface wind drift layer, the consistent crustal sea surface undulation representation and wave crushing conditions are deduced , The function expression of the sea surface fluctuation of the broken ocean waves is given by the Heaviside function combination method.Based on the deduced expression of the sea surface fluctuation function of the broken ocean waves and the fact that the ocean waves are always steep, we propose a method that includes basal ocean waves, weakly nonlinear ocean waves And the broken sea wave triplet sea surface triplet function that the triple composite function of the wave and the normal distribution of the law of the base wave of the summation is the proposed mathematical model of the ocean wave ups and downs statistics mathematical.