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六年前的夏天,我们到了青海高原长江上游第一渡——通天河渡口,坐在沙滩上,面对山谷间从拔海六千米的河源奔腾而至的汹涌巨流,倾听老舱工尕布老人述说通天河岸藏族人民今昔生活的变迁。尕布老人已经七十岁了,两道花白剑眉,一双锐敏的大眼睛,嘴角上长着又密又粗的银色大胡须,是个豪放的老人。他操着一口生硬的汉语说: “‘走遍天下路,难过通天渡’,在人们的心中,通天河一直是飞鸟难过的地方。”老人指着河沿上游一块足有三十平方的大石头,“瞧,那就是唐代和尚玄奘的‘晒经台’。唐僧到西天取经回来,路过这
Six years ago, in the summer, we arrived at the ferry crossing Tongtianhe, the first ferry on the upper reaches of the Qinghai Plateau. We sat on the beach facing the turbulent stream flowing from the Heyuan source of 6,000 meters above sea level in the valley. The old man of cloth mentions the vicissitudes of ancient and modern life of Tibetan people on the bank of the Tongtian River. Gaubu the elderly have been seventy years old, two flower white Jianmei, a pair of sharp-eyed big eyes, mouth with dense and thick silver beard, is a bold old man. He speaks blunt Chinese saying: ”Walking through the world roads, it is sad to pass the heaven-sent ferry,“ and in people’s minds, the sky has always been a sad place for birds. ”The old man pointed to a piece of river with a height of thirty square feet Big stone, “Look, that is the Tang Dynasty monk Xuan Zang’s” drying Taiwan. "Tang monk to learn from the west, passing this