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风浪理论,自Sverdrup与Munk于1947年提出其理论以来,已有了相当大的发展。十多年间,有不少理论被提出,其中较重要而常用的,如Sverdrup与Munk的有效波理论,的三维风浪理论,Pierson与Neumann的波谱理论和文圣常(以下简称文氏)的普遍风浪谱理论。基于这四种理论来预报各阶段的风浪的波高和周期,固然常给出互不相同的结果,然而,即使以其中任一方法来预报尚处在同时随风区和
The theory of storms has developed considerably since its introduction by Sverdrup and Munk in 1947. For more than a decade, many theories have been put forward. Among them, the most important and commonly used are the effective wave theory of Sverdrup and Munk, the three-dimensional wind wave theory, the spectrum theory of Pierson and Neumann, and the universal storm of Wen Sheng (hereinafter referred to as Wen’s) Spectrum theory. Predicting the wave heights and periods of storms at all stages based on these four theories often gives different results, however, even if any one of them is used to predict the wave height and period