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香药,在相当长的历史时期里,一直是以贵族的专利品和享用品的面目出现的,不见于市易。只是到了宋代,香药陡然出现在了万众交易的大相国寺市场上(孟元老《东京梦华录》卷三),而且出售者为转任待命的地方官员。这些地方官员不惜放下身段,将地方特产香药投入市坊,这反映出了东京市民对香药需求的迫切,香药已冲破贵族的界限走向市民。一香药与市民日常饮食以市民公认的“市食”为例,以香药为佐料的菜肴比例增多了。如周密
Xiang medicine, in a very long period of history, has always been based on aristocratic patented products and enjoy the appearance of products, not seen in the market. It was only in the Song Dynasty that the fragrances suddenly appeared on the market for the large number of Chinese temples traded by the masses (Meng Yuanlao’s “Tokyo Monogatari” Volume III), and the sellers were local officials transferred to standby. These local officials did not hesitate to lay aside themselves and put the local specialty fragrances into the city, reflecting the urgency of Tokyo citizens’ demand for the fragrances. The fragrances have broken through the boundary of the nobles toward the public. A fragrant medicine and the daily diet of the public to the public recognition “city food ” as an example, the proportion of dishes with spices as condiments increased. As careful