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Traffic in China often resembles a real auto race. I used to be convinced that drivers in Moscow were the world’s worst, and later thought the same of New York cab drivers, but I am now convinced that Chinese drivers take the top prize in the competition.
In July 2012, I was a participant of the UN Chinese language group traveling across northeast China’s Heilongjiang Province to visit the cities of Harbin, Daqing and Qiqihar. Our delegation’s four minivans moved bumper-to-bumper, headed by a police car. And yet many sedans’ crafty drivers tried to swerve into any tiny gap that rarely appeared between the vehicles. With a slight sense of awe, I watched our driver maneuver and shift from side to side, forcing pesky sedans out of his way and onto the curb. He never let off the horn.
This habit of fighting for your own “pace”under the sun must have formed thousands of years ago at the dawn of the Chinese civilization, when people had to compete for territory and resources. Today, amid rapid economic growth, survival skills are just as relevant. In today’s China, many people, especially small business owners, work 16-18 hours a day in order to feed their families. In Nanjing, east China’s Jiangsu Province, I observed carts and trays gathering near a Guangzhou Street intersection minutes before sunrise, which stayed open until late at night. Fruit and vegetable vendors spent their nights working under canvas roofs.
Speed and flexibility have allowed Chinese to move forward at a pace that few have predicted. This country has quickly become the leading manufacturer and exporter of solar panels while the rest of the world dallies over the advantages of solar energy. At the World Expo 2010 in Shanghai, I was surprised to see a futuristic solution to a new generation housing complex presented by joint ventures of Chinese and German conglomerates. Such a house saves up to 90 percent of energy compared with traditional buildings: triple-plated glass windows keep the interior warm in the winter and cool in the summer; wasted energy—such as excess heat from the refrigerator or human body—is converted into electricity used to power lights. Nanotechnology is another area where China is striving to become a leading manufacturer.
It came time for me to say goodbye to the never-stopping Beijing, which welcomed me to one of the world’s sleepless cities. My airline seat had many advantages: It was the closest to the doorway leading to the first class, allowing more leg room to stretch out; and the cocktails and snacks started with me. The biggest perk was that upon arrival in Moscow’s Domodedovo Airport, I was the first off the plane after first-class passengers. During the eight-hour flight, one thought was stuck in my mind: How could I be sure to stay ahead of the 361 swift Chinese passengers that filled the rows behind me.
As soon as the plane landed and the arrival announcement was made, old and young catapulted out of their seats. The sounds of belt buckles and overhead storage bins filled the air. Voices of youngsters rang out in response to the parents’ harsh calls to order. I jumped out of my seat, grabbed my bag and leaned against the curtain separating us from first class. I only let my guard down for a split second when a Chinese girl, about 12 years of age, suddenly appeared in front of me. She was holding a small carry-on bag in her hand and was talking to her father, who was still in the back of the plane. Wrapped in the curtain she must have looked like Casper, “the friendly ghost,” to the first-class passengers who were exiting from the other end of the divide. As soon as the curtain was opened by the firm arm of the stewardess, the race off the plane started. While rushing across the long “sleeve”leading to the terminal I could almost feel the Chinese girl’s dad gaining on me. I won the race when a customs checkpoint presented a major stumbling block for the Chinese runners. The wait time at the baggage claim hall may have evened us out, but that did not affect the final results.
It was early morning. I was facing a huge airport’s hall, and had the feeling of a sprinter just before a new race.