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章诒和的《伶人往事》里讲过她的父亲章伯钧请京剧大师马连良吃饭的故事:刚过午休,几个穿着白衣白裤的人就进了章家厨房,用自备的大锅烧开水,等水烧开,放碱,然后用碱水洗厨房,洗到案板发白,地砖见了本色才罢手。再过了一个时辰,又来了一拨儿穿白色衣裤的人,肩挑手扛着整桌酒席用具,还有人扛着烤鸭用的大捆苹果木枝。院子里,肥鸭流油飘香,厨师在白布上使用着自己带来的案板、炊具——连抹布都是自备的,雪白。
Zhang 诒 and “The Past” told her father Zhang Bojun Peking Opera Master Marianne eat dinner story: Just after lunch break, a few people in white and white pants into the Zhang kitchen, with their own cauldron boiled water , And other water boil, put alkali, and then wash the kitchen with alkali, wash the board whitish, see the qualities of bricks until they stop. Another hour later, another wave of people dressed in white underwear, shoulders hand carrying the entire table catering appliances, and others carrying a large bundle of roasted duck apple wood. Yard, fat duck oil fragrance, the chef on the white cloth using their own chopping board, cookware - even rags are prepared, white.