—According to the energy equation,the relation between reflection and energy losses for shortwaves from mild beaches is established and analysed.A reflection c
<正>—A new nonlinear dispersion relation is given in this paper.which can overcome the limitationof the intermediate minimum value in the dispersion relation p
In order to obtain high order spectral moments, the residual moment M( ωn )i =∫ωn0ωiS(ω)dω, as proposed by Dehis, is presented for approximate estimation o
Based on hydrodynamic model tests,the relationship between relative hydrodynamic coefficientand cycle coefficient K_c is obtained by introducing the relative tr