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本文研究了直立堤前波浪形态的分类方法和不同波浪形态间的界限及共产生条件;指出堤前存在有立波(包括破碎型立波),破碎型波(包括在堤前破碎的击岸波和在堤面破碎的破碎波)及过渡波三类波态;其波况及存在条件完全有别于无堤时的情况,阐明了埋基床与突基床情况的波况差异;指出了影响波浪破碎的各主要因素;提出了用临界波能说明波浪破碎的概念,并提出了各项有关指标。本文还研究了破碎型波波压力的特征及其计算图式,根据实验和分析成果提出了包括有地形底坡影响因素的击岸波波压力计算图式,并分析了它与现用方法的差别。代表符号说明H:水深 H_(CT):直立墙前水深 H_Бn:突基床直立墙基肩水深 E_(?)θ:全波长及单位长度上的波浪能量 p:波浪压力强度2h:波高 p_0:静水面处波压强度2L:波长 p_H:水底处波压强度2T:波周期 i:海底底坡0:波速 r:水的容重δ=(2h)/(2L):波陡其它有关符号见文中说明。h_0:波形中线抬高值u:波浪水流击岸速度v:波浪水质点运动轨迹速度。
In this paper, the classification methods of the wave form of upright dike and the boundaries between different wave forms and the conditions of co-generation are studied. It is pointed out that there are vertical wave (including broken vertical wave), broken wave Embankment broken broken wave) and transition wave three kinds of wave state; its condition and conditions are completely different from the situation without embankment, clarified the submarine bed and sudden submarine bed situation differences; pointed out the impact of waves The main factors that lead to the breakage are presented. The concept of wave breaking by the critical wave is proposed and some relevant indexes are put forward. In this paper, the characteristics and calculation formulas of the crushing wave pressure are also studied. According to the experimental and analytical results, the calculation formula of the shore-pressure wave including the influencing factors of topography is proposed and the difference between it and the existing method is analyzed . Representative Symbol Description H: Depth of water H_ (CT): Depth of water in front of vertical wall H_Бn: Depth of abutment shoulder wall of projecting bed E _ (?) Θ: Wave energy at full wavelength and unit length p: Wave pressure intensity 2h: Wave height p_0: Wave pressure at hydrostatic level 2L: Wavelength p_H: Wave pressure at water bottom 2T: Wave period i: Bottom slope 0: Velocity r: Bulk density of water δ = (2h) / (2L): Wave steep Other relevant symbols Description. h_0: Wave midline elevation value u: wave water hit shore speed v: wave water quality point trajectory speed.