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在海洋工程设计中,往往要求包括极限破碎波在内的极为非线性的波浪资料。为提供这些资料,目前已有多种非线性波浪理论可供使用,其中多数最终给出速度势函数φ(x,z,t)的表达式和波面方程,由此来研究与波浪相遇的结构物的运动性能,或者计算作用于这类结构物上的波浪力。这些理论包括用于近岸和浅水的孤立波理论和椭圆余弦波理论,主要用于深水和过渡水深的高阶斯托克斯波浪理论和流函数波浪理论,此外,还有扩展速度势理论和直接数值波浪理论等。在所有这些波浪理论中,流函数波浪理论对整个深水、过渡水深及部分浅水都提供了最好的边界条件拟合和最好的实验可靠性。就
In offshore engineering designs, very non-linear wave data including limit breaking waves are often required. In order to provide these data, a variety of nonlinear wave theories are available. Most of them eventually give the expression of velocity potential function φ (x, z, t) and the wave equation so as to study the structure that meets the wave Or the calculation of wave forces acting on such structures. These theories include solitary wave theory and elliptic cosine wave theory for nearshore and shallow water, mainly for the high order Stokes wave theory and stream function wave theory for deep and transitional water depths, in addition to the extended velocity potential theory and Direct numerical wave theory. In all of these wave theories, the stream function wave theory provides the best fitting of the boundary conditions and the best experimental reliability for the entire deep water, the transitional depth, and for some of the shallow water. on