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9月3日傍晚,我开始了独自在积石山的采访行程——从甘肃省临夏市前往积石山保安族东乡族撒拉族自治县。天空中飘着蒙蒙细雨,道路两旁目光所及之处都是绿色——这与我想象之中的黄土地的苍凉相去甚远,让第一次来到黄土高原的我颇感意外。一路上,眼见一座座清真寺耸立于乡村田舍之中——虽然建筑风格不尽相同,但屋脊上那弯新月在夜幕之中却是同样的醒目。这就是积石山。它不仅有一个全国最长的县名,还是大禹治水的源头、“中国彩陶王”的故乡、中国花椒之乡、世界民歌“花儿”的采录地……对于这个地方,我充满了好奇和向往。
On the evening of September 3, I started the interview trip on Jishishan alone - from Linxia City, Gansu Province, to the Saigon Autonomous County of Dongan, Jibushan, Jishan Mountain. Floating in the sky with drizzle, the eyes on both sides of the road were green everywhere - far from the desolation of the loess land I imagined, so I was surprised to see the Loess Plateau for the first time. Along the way, seeing a mosque standing in rural fields - although the architectural style is different, the crescent moon on the ridge is equally striking in the night. This is Jishishan. It not only has one of the country’s longest county names, but also the source of Dayu flood control, the hometown of China’s Painted pottery king, the hometown of Chinese prickly ash seedlings, the world’s folk songs and flowers. For this place, I am full of curiosity and yearning.