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Travelling through time is very popular nowadays and there are many novels， TV series and movies related to this topic.
But how can a taste pass through？
I want to know the flavor in the ancient kitchens， their cooking materials， and whether the smoke from the kitchen chimney smelt differently back then and what was the mood of people when cooking.
It has to come to a halt！ These ideas seem too reasonless. No matter how hard I try to imagine， I cannot go back. I wonder if “travelling through time” can only exist in literature.
It was until a book dispelled my concerns. It is called Arts for the People， and I couldn’t imagine I found hope in such an ancient book. I saw an ancient dish that made me feel a kind of taste travelling： weever slices. When Emperor Yang of Sui visited regions south of the Yangtze River， he praised the dish as “Golden Spices and Jade Flesh of Fish” since it was so delicious with jade like fish flesh and gold like spices.
I only know two Chinese characters of the four. With gold and jade， it must be a precious dish bedecked with jewels. So my curiosity pushed me into a study trip.
穿越，是时下最流行的一个词，穿越小说、电视剧、电影层出不穷。
可是，如果味道可以穿越？
我想知道古代厨房里的味道，想知道他们做饭都用哪些食材，想知道那时的炊烟是否有不一样的味道，想知道那时的人面对做一道菜是怎样的心情。
这些想法似乎都太无厘头。无论我用尽怎样的想象，也无法真正回到过去。我好奇的“穿越”是否只存在于虚幻的文学世界里？
直到一本书的出现打消了我的顾虑。它是《齐民要术》，我都难以想象我居然在这样一本古书里找到了希望。在这本书里看到了一道令我的味觉顿时有种穿越感的古菜：鲈鱼脍。隋炀帝巡幸江南品尝此菜时，因其味鲜美异常，鱼肉洁白如玉，齑料色泽金黄，连声赞曰“金齑玉脍！”
这四个字我只认识两个，又有金又有玉，想必一定是道珠光宝气的珍贵菜。于是好奇心加上幻想欲促使我开始了研究之旅。
When I searched the cooking method of this dish on Baidu， I found a paragraph in Tai Ping Guang Ji： the fish should be smaller than three chi. Put it in sauces and then dry it by a cloth. Put it into a plate with flowers and leaves in it. Cut it into pieces and mix it with spices. Then the fish would have snow like flesh with no fishy smell. It is so-called Golden Spices and Jade Flesh of Fish and a tasty food in southeast China.
But what are the exact food materials and cooking method of this in classical Chinese？
在百度上搜索这道古菜的做法时，我找到了这样一段话，《太平广记》卷二三四引旧题，唐颜师古《大业拾遗记·吴馔》：“收鲈鱼三尺以下者作乾鱠，浸渍讫，布裹沥水令尽，散置盘内，取香柔花叶，相间细切，和鱠拨令调匀，霜后鲈鱼，肉白如雪，不腥，所谓金虀玉鱠，东南之佳味也。”
可这食材、做法在这文言文里究竟都是什么呢？
为了尝试这道古菜穿越的味道，我决定亲自试试。
第一步，准备食材，任性的品质就是要最大程度还原古菜的味道。本以为简单的过程却经过了复杂的搜索。
Golden spices actually have nothing to do with gold and the latter character pronounced as Ji meaning a kind of spice. It has 8 ingredients： garlic， ginger， salt， salted and dried plum， orange peel， soybean sauce， cooked chestnut and japonica rice， and is called eight-integrated spices. The pasty pattern of them is golden spices. The salted and dried plum can be a spice？ Why it has this name？ These are my first curiosities.
Jade flesh of fish also has nothing to do with jade， but it must be weever. The material shows that “hui” means thin fillet.
It is just steamed weever， why called jade flesh？ This is my second curiosity.
金齑，原来跟金子无半毛钱关系，而后面那个字念做jī，这只是一种调料。金齑共有八种配料：蒜、姜、盐、白梅、桔皮、酱油、熟栗子肉和粳米饭，叫做八和齑。把八种配料调成糊状，就是金齑。
白梅还可以做料？为什么叫金齑？这是我产生的第一个好奇。
玉脍，也跟玉扯不上，强调了一种食材是鲈鱼。据资料显示，“脍”是切成薄的鱼片。
这不就是蒸鲈鱼么？为什么叫玉脍呢？ 这是我产生的第二个好奇。
In order to have a try of this ancient dish， I decided to do it by myself.
The first step is to prepare cooking materials. It has to restore the flavor of the ancient dish to the greatest degree. The considered simple process had complicated search work.
In the eight-integrated spices in historic materials， it is salted and dried plum that hard to find. It was one of the traditional foods of China. Before the invention of vinegar， it was the major sour spice and was essential for cooking soup. In the Gu Wen Shang Shu of Mei Yi in the Eastern Jin Dynasty， it was said， “if cooks soup， it should have salted plum”， which is what we called today.
Cooked chestnut is cooked millet， which is for the golden color. The original material said， it must be golden and that is why it is called golden spices.
When solved the golden thing， the leading actor should show up， which is jade flesh of fish.
It is said that when Emperor Yang of Sui visited regions south of the Yangtze River， he tasted the Songjiang four gill weever in Yangzhou， and praised the dish as “Golden Spices and Jade Flesh of Fish and the great taste on southeast”. So in ancient times， its delicious flavor and jade like flesh is loved by emperors and officers.
按照史料记载的八和齑配料里，比较难找到的就是白梅。原来白梅也是中国古老的传统食物之一，在醋发明之前，它是主要的酸味调料，做羹汤时必不可少。东晋梅颐编造的《古文尚书》中有“若作和羹，尔惟盐梅”，盐梅就是白梅。
熟粟子就是弄熟的小米饭啦，是为了营造金黄的颜色。原来资料显示，齑料必用黄色，故此谓金齑。
金齑的问题解决了，现在主角登场就是玉脍。
相传隋炀帝下江南，在扬州品尝了松江四鳃鲈鱼后赞美说：“金齑玉脍，东南佳味也。”所以在古代，由于四腮鲈鱼鲜美、不腥，白色如玉的肉香得到了帝王将相的喜爱。
But can the four gill weever be bought？ When looked up its information， it actual a VIP that it is a national secondary aquatic wild protected animal and the last rare nobility of mankind. It has the reputation of “the top one fish in Jiangnan”. This fish is very rare that it is hard to find in ordinary dishes.
When we planned to use ordinary weever， our willful leader said seriously that， “since we want to find the ancient taste， we should restore it as much as we can”. He found that if ordinary weever works， they would not only use four gill ones， which shows the difference. But what are the differences？ He found the answer through utmost investigation that， the ordinary ones have stronger smell and more parasites and cannot be eaten uncooked. Then what shall be our substitute？ Lao Jue suggested using the bream， the material for Japanese sashimi. It can be eaten uncooked and is the best substitute.
可是这四鳃鲈鱼到底能不能买到呢？不查不要紧，一查才知道，四鳃鲈鱼来头不小，它是中国国家二级水生野生保护动物，是人类最后的珍稀贵族。有着“江南第一名鱼”之美称。这种鱼由于非常珍贵，现在在民间已经非常难吃到。
正在转而准备用普通鲈鱼代替之时，“任性”的领导老觉发挥了其认真、任性的品质说：“我们既然要穿越找到古菜的味道，就要尽可能还原。”他研究发现，如果用普通鲈鱼就可以做到的话，那会儿就不会用四鳃鲈鱼，说明其中有差别。可差别在哪儿呢？经他悉心调查发现，普通鲈鱼相对比较腥，再加上寄生虫比较多，不如四腮鲈鱼可生食，新鲜。
那用什么来替代鲈鱼呢，老觉建议用日式料理店里做生鱼片的鲷鱼，它可生食，新鲜不腥。是最好的替代品。
According to Tai Ping Guang Ji， there was a thing called leaves of Xiangrou flower for cooking sashimi. Li Shizhen proved it was just herba elsholtziae in Compendium of Materia Medica. The thing needs for the dish maybe the Haizhou one or purple flower one. But it cannot be found in winter at Beijing. When we felt it was hard to do the dish， Laojue again played his willful character and found the best substitute called perilla leaf. It is said that perilla leaf is the traditional plant for sashimi in Chinese history and has the same effects of herba elsholtziae. When he said this to us， we felt that we have completed half of the dish since the restoration of ancient dish lies mostly in finding the original materials.
But soon we came across another difficulty， the cooking method. The information online doesn’t show the specific matching. So we found other ancient materials and pictures and based on Tai Ping Guang Ji to get the method and try our best to reshow its golden and jade feature.
Do you want to travel back with us to have a taste of this expensive dish that served for emperor？ Do you want to know the natural beauty of golden spices and jade flesh？ Please come with us to discover its secret.
按照《太平广记》记载，用来拌鱼片的还有一种闻所未闻的材料名目，香柔花叶的东西。李时珍在《本草纲目》中考证其为中药香薷，金齑玉脍所用的香柔花，可能是开紫花的海州香薷或紫花香薷。但是查了半天，这种东西在冬天的北京是找不到的。正在我们一筹莫展的时候，任性老觉又发挥了他“任性”的特质，发现了能够最好替代的东西叫做紫苏叶。经考据，紫苏也是中国历史上搭配鱼生的传统植物，与香薷有同效。最终，老觉笑着对我们说出紫苏叶三个字时，顿时感觉金齑玉鱠这道菜已经成功了一半。因为想要还原古菜的味道，原汁原味的食材就是最关键的。
但是正在我们得意之时，又碰到了另一个难题，就是金齑玉鲙的具体做法。我们在网络上查找资料，没有看到具体的配比。于是我们根据《太平广记》的记载，又配合其他史料和图片大概找到了其烹饪方法，最大限度地再现料如金、鱼如玉的本色。
想要跟我们一起穿越去品尝这道皇帝吃的贵菜么？想要知道金齑与玉脍天然美妙的颜色么？那请跟我们一起去揭开它的秘密。
In order to restore the original taste and shape of the dish， we came to the Taimei diner at Hongkun Square and asked executive chef Song to be our adviser.
为了能更好地还原金齑玉鲙的本色与味道，这次我们特地来到了位于北京鸿坤广场的泰美餐厅，请行政总厨宋师傅来做我们的顾问。
First step， prepare the material for sashimi.
第一步，备料生鱼片。
I： This is a vivacious bream. Let’s mourn for its dedication for art， salute！ Song： It weights one jin and two liang， which has the best taste of flesh.
我：这是一条鲜活的鲷鱼。向为艺术事业献身的它默哀，致敬！
宋师傅：这条鱼一斤二两。这种分量的鱼肉质感好。
I： How can we cut this when at home？
Song： Cut it into thin slices according to the lines slanting to the right. In fact there are many ways and this is an easy one.
我：这生鱼片在家里大致怎么片呢？
宋师傅：斜刀向右按纹路切薄片。其实鱼片有很多种切法，这种相对容易操作。
A master is a master. Just see the jade look of sashimi on the perilla leaf. The ancient book said that the combination of the two can increase the delicious flavor and remove the fishy smell.
The dish place is an art too. Let’s salute again to this fish for art.
Prepared sashimi， the second step is also the key part， which is to do the golden spices and decides the success of the dish.
There are eight ingredients. When I prepared to make them into powder， the chef’s words let me feel that cooking is so meaningful.
大师就是不一般，看看这切好的生鱼片在紫苏叶的衬托下显得更加玉润。按《太平广记》记载，这紫苏叶是要和鱼肉裹在一起，起到增鲜去腥的效果。
摆盘也是一项艺术。再次向为艺术献身的鲷鱼致敬。
准备好生鱼片后，第二步就是最关键的金齑的做法，成也由它，败也由它。
这八和齑自然八种材料做成。当我准备将所有都切成粉末状时，大厨的一番话让我顿时觉得，做菜是如此有意味的一件事。
Let’s see the picture first.
先来看图
These are the shreds of orange peel.
这是橘皮切丝
These are the dices of salted and dried plum.
白梅切块
I： Why not in powder？
Song： Every material has its own feature and the shape of them should be cut according to it.
我：为什么不能都切成粉末呢
宋师傅：每种食材都有不同的个性，要根据它的品性切成不同的形状。
Salted and dried plum plays a major role in this and it should be boiled for a long time becoming a sauce to add sour taste. This is a completed one.
白梅在这金齑里的作用功不可没，它要熬制很长时间成为一种酸梅酱汁，替代醋增加酸度。这是熬制好的酸梅酱汁。
Others are in different shape according to their features. This is a family portrait of eight-integrated spices. From left to right： orange peel， millet， glutinous rice powder， ginger， salted and dried plum， sauce， salt， garlic.
I： Why use glutinous rice powder not polished round-grained rice？
Song： The function of the latter one is to increase the viscosity， and the former one has better effects.
其它的就是按照各自的品性做成不同形状。这是一张八和齑的全家福。从左至右依次是橘皮、粟米、姜末、白梅、酱汁、糯米粉、盐、蒜末。
我：咦，不应该是粳米么，怎么是糯米粉？
宋师傅：粳米在这里的作用就是为了增加粘稠度，用糯米粉比粳米效果更好。
This is the well-known golden spices in the legend.
The way is to put eight ingredients together.
I： What are the proportions of them？
Song： It can be decided by your taste. But the rules are， first： golden color should be realized by Millet， sauce and glutinous rice flour； second， the viscosity should be proper and the key is the use of glutinous rice flour.
这就是大名鼎鼎，金光熠熠的传说中的金齑了。
做法就是八种料调和在一起。
我：可是这八种料的比例是多少啊？
宋师傅：这完全是根据个人口味来调制，但是原则是第一：金黄色，要靠粟米、酱汁和糯米粉的色度来完成；第二，粘稠度要把握好，不太稠不太稀，主要是糯米粉的掌握。
When it was done， sashimi can be tasted in the spices. When put them together， you will immediately know the meaning of its name.
Do you want to know the flavor of travelling through time？ You should do it by yourself！
金齑调好以后，就可以将生鱼片放到酱汁里吃。它们摆在一起，你就会恍然大悟金齑玉脍四个字的含义。
想要知道吃在嘴里的那种穿越的味道么？那你只有自己亲自做了才知道！
But how can a taste pass through？
I want to know the flavor in the ancient kitchens， their cooking materials， and whether the smoke from the kitchen chimney smelt differently back then and what was the mood of people when cooking.
It has to come to a halt！ These ideas seem too reasonless. No matter how hard I try to imagine， I cannot go back. I wonder if “travelling through time” can only exist in literature.
It was until a book dispelled my concerns. It is called Arts for the People， and I couldn’t imagine I found hope in such an ancient book. I saw an ancient dish that made me feel a kind of taste travelling： weever slices. When Emperor Yang of Sui visited regions south of the Yangtze River， he praised the dish as “Golden Spices and Jade Flesh of Fish” since it was so delicious with jade like fish flesh and gold like spices.
I only know two Chinese characters of the four. With gold and jade， it must be a precious dish bedecked with jewels. So my curiosity pushed me into a study trip.
穿越，是时下最流行的一个词，穿越小说、电视剧、电影层出不穷。
可是，如果味道可以穿越？
我想知道古代厨房里的味道，想知道他们做饭都用哪些食材，想知道那时的炊烟是否有不一样的味道，想知道那时的人面对做一道菜是怎样的心情。
这些想法似乎都太无厘头。无论我用尽怎样的想象，也无法真正回到过去。我好奇的“穿越”是否只存在于虚幻的文学世界里？
直到一本书的出现打消了我的顾虑。它是《齐民要术》，我都难以想象我居然在这样一本古书里找到了希望。在这本书里看到了一道令我的味觉顿时有种穿越感的古菜：鲈鱼脍。隋炀帝巡幸江南品尝此菜时，因其味鲜美异常，鱼肉洁白如玉，齑料色泽金黄，连声赞曰“金齑玉脍！”
这四个字我只认识两个，又有金又有玉，想必一定是道珠光宝气的珍贵菜。于是好奇心加上幻想欲促使我开始了研究之旅。
When I searched the cooking method of this dish on Baidu， I found a paragraph in Tai Ping Guang Ji： the fish should be smaller than three chi. Put it in sauces and then dry it by a cloth. Put it into a plate with flowers and leaves in it. Cut it into pieces and mix it with spices. Then the fish would have snow like flesh with no fishy smell. It is so-called Golden Spices and Jade Flesh of Fish and a tasty food in southeast China.
But what are the exact food materials and cooking method of this in classical Chinese？
在百度上搜索这道古菜的做法时，我找到了这样一段话，《太平广记》卷二三四引旧题，唐颜师古《大业拾遗记·吴馔》：“收鲈鱼三尺以下者作乾鱠，浸渍讫，布裹沥水令尽，散置盘内，取香柔花叶，相间细切，和鱠拨令调匀，霜后鲈鱼，肉白如雪，不腥，所谓金虀玉鱠，东南之佳味也。”
可这食材、做法在这文言文里究竟都是什么呢？
为了尝试这道古菜穿越的味道，我决定亲自试试。
第一步，准备食材，任性的品质就是要最大程度还原古菜的味道。本以为简单的过程却经过了复杂的搜索。
Golden spices actually have nothing to do with gold and the latter character pronounced as Ji meaning a kind of spice. It has 8 ingredients： garlic， ginger， salt， salted and dried plum， orange peel， soybean sauce， cooked chestnut and japonica rice， and is called eight-integrated spices. The pasty pattern of them is golden spices. The salted and dried plum can be a spice？ Why it has this name？ These are my first curiosities.
Jade flesh of fish also has nothing to do with jade， but it must be weever. The material shows that “hui” means thin fillet.
It is just steamed weever， why called jade flesh？ This is my second curiosity.
金齑，原来跟金子无半毛钱关系，而后面那个字念做jī，这只是一种调料。金齑共有八种配料：蒜、姜、盐、白梅、桔皮、酱油、熟栗子肉和粳米饭，叫做八和齑。把八种配料调成糊状，就是金齑。
白梅还可以做料？为什么叫金齑？这是我产生的第一个好奇。
玉脍，也跟玉扯不上，强调了一种食材是鲈鱼。据资料显示，“脍”是切成薄的鱼片。
这不就是蒸鲈鱼么？为什么叫玉脍呢？ 这是我产生的第二个好奇。
In order to have a try of this ancient dish， I decided to do it by myself.
The first step is to prepare cooking materials. It has to restore the flavor of the ancient dish to the greatest degree. The considered simple process had complicated search work.
In the eight-integrated spices in historic materials， it is salted and dried plum that hard to find. It was one of the traditional foods of China. Before the invention of vinegar， it was the major sour spice and was essential for cooking soup. In the Gu Wen Shang Shu of Mei Yi in the Eastern Jin Dynasty， it was said， “if cooks soup， it should have salted plum”， which is what we called today.
Cooked chestnut is cooked millet， which is for the golden color. The original material said， it must be golden and that is why it is called golden spices.
When solved the golden thing， the leading actor should show up， which is jade flesh of fish.
It is said that when Emperor Yang of Sui visited regions south of the Yangtze River， he tasted the Songjiang four gill weever in Yangzhou， and praised the dish as “Golden Spices and Jade Flesh of Fish and the great taste on southeast”. So in ancient times， its delicious flavor and jade like flesh is loved by emperors and officers.
按照史料记载的八和齑配料里，比较难找到的就是白梅。原来白梅也是中国古老的传统食物之一，在醋发明之前，它是主要的酸味调料，做羹汤时必不可少。东晋梅颐编造的《古文尚书》中有“若作和羹，尔惟盐梅”，盐梅就是白梅。
熟粟子就是弄熟的小米饭啦，是为了营造金黄的颜色。原来资料显示，齑料必用黄色，故此谓金齑。
金齑的问题解决了，现在主角登场就是玉脍。
相传隋炀帝下江南，在扬州品尝了松江四鳃鲈鱼后赞美说：“金齑玉脍，东南佳味也。”所以在古代，由于四腮鲈鱼鲜美、不腥，白色如玉的肉香得到了帝王将相的喜爱。
But can the four gill weever be bought？ When looked up its information， it actual a VIP that it is a national secondary aquatic wild protected animal and the last rare nobility of mankind. It has the reputation of “the top one fish in Jiangnan”. This fish is very rare that it is hard to find in ordinary dishes.
When we planned to use ordinary weever， our willful leader said seriously that， “since we want to find the ancient taste， we should restore it as much as we can”. He found that if ordinary weever works， they would not only use four gill ones， which shows the difference. But what are the differences？ He found the answer through utmost investigation that， the ordinary ones have stronger smell and more parasites and cannot be eaten uncooked. Then what shall be our substitute？ Lao Jue suggested using the bream， the material for Japanese sashimi. It can be eaten uncooked and is the best substitute.
可是这四鳃鲈鱼到底能不能买到呢？不查不要紧，一查才知道，四鳃鲈鱼来头不小，它是中国国家二级水生野生保护动物，是人类最后的珍稀贵族。有着“江南第一名鱼”之美称。这种鱼由于非常珍贵，现在在民间已经非常难吃到。
正在转而准备用普通鲈鱼代替之时，“任性”的领导老觉发挥了其认真、任性的品质说：“我们既然要穿越找到古菜的味道，就要尽可能还原。”他研究发现，如果用普通鲈鱼就可以做到的话，那会儿就不会用四鳃鲈鱼，说明其中有差别。可差别在哪儿呢？经他悉心调查发现，普通鲈鱼相对比较腥，再加上寄生虫比较多，不如四腮鲈鱼可生食，新鲜。
那用什么来替代鲈鱼呢，老觉建议用日式料理店里做生鱼片的鲷鱼，它可生食，新鲜不腥。是最好的替代品。
According to Tai Ping Guang Ji， there was a thing called leaves of Xiangrou flower for cooking sashimi. Li Shizhen proved it was just herba elsholtziae in Compendium of Materia Medica. The thing needs for the dish maybe the Haizhou one or purple flower one. But it cannot be found in winter at Beijing. When we felt it was hard to do the dish， Laojue again played his willful character and found the best substitute called perilla leaf. It is said that perilla leaf is the traditional plant for sashimi in Chinese history and has the same effects of herba elsholtziae. When he said this to us， we felt that we have completed half of the dish since the restoration of ancient dish lies mostly in finding the original materials.
But soon we came across another difficulty， the cooking method. The information online doesn’t show the specific matching. So we found other ancient materials and pictures and based on Tai Ping Guang Ji to get the method and try our best to reshow its golden and jade feature.
Do you want to travel back with us to have a taste of this expensive dish that served for emperor？ Do you want to know the natural beauty of golden spices and jade flesh？ Please come with us to discover its secret.
按照《太平广记》记载，用来拌鱼片的还有一种闻所未闻的材料名目，香柔花叶的东西。李时珍在《本草纲目》中考证其为中药香薷，金齑玉脍所用的香柔花，可能是开紫花的海州香薷或紫花香薷。但是查了半天，这种东西在冬天的北京是找不到的。正在我们一筹莫展的时候，任性老觉又发挥了他“任性”的特质，发现了能够最好替代的东西叫做紫苏叶。经考据，紫苏也是中国历史上搭配鱼生的传统植物，与香薷有同效。最终，老觉笑着对我们说出紫苏叶三个字时，顿时感觉金齑玉鱠这道菜已经成功了一半。因为想要还原古菜的味道，原汁原味的食材就是最关键的。
但是正在我们得意之时，又碰到了另一个难题，就是金齑玉鲙的具体做法。我们在网络上查找资料，没有看到具体的配比。于是我们根据《太平广记》的记载，又配合其他史料和图片大概找到了其烹饪方法，最大限度地再现料如金、鱼如玉的本色。
想要跟我们一起穿越去品尝这道皇帝吃的贵菜么？想要知道金齑与玉脍天然美妙的颜色么？那请跟我们一起去揭开它的秘密。
In order to restore the original taste and shape of the dish， we came to the Taimei diner at Hongkun Square and asked executive chef Song to be our adviser.
为了能更好地还原金齑玉鲙的本色与味道，这次我们特地来到了位于北京鸿坤广场的泰美餐厅，请行政总厨宋师傅来做我们的顾问。
First step， prepare the material for sashimi.
第一步，备料生鱼片。
I： This is a vivacious bream. Let’s mourn for its dedication for art， salute！ Song： It weights one jin and two liang， which has the best taste of flesh.
我：这是一条鲜活的鲷鱼。向为艺术事业献身的它默哀，致敬！
宋师傅：这条鱼一斤二两。这种分量的鱼肉质感好。
I： How can we cut this when at home？
Song： Cut it into thin slices according to the lines slanting to the right. In fact there are many ways and this is an easy one.
我：这生鱼片在家里大致怎么片呢？
宋师傅：斜刀向右按纹路切薄片。其实鱼片有很多种切法，这种相对容易操作。
A master is a master. Just see the jade look of sashimi on the perilla leaf. The ancient book said that the combination of the two can increase the delicious flavor and remove the fishy smell.
The dish place is an art too. Let’s salute again to this fish for art.
Prepared sashimi， the second step is also the key part， which is to do the golden spices and decides the success of the dish.
There are eight ingredients. When I prepared to make them into powder， the chef’s words let me feel that cooking is so meaningful.
大师就是不一般，看看这切好的生鱼片在紫苏叶的衬托下显得更加玉润。按《太平广记》记载，这紫苏叶是要和鱼肉裹在一起，起到增鲜去腥的效果。
摆盘也是一项艺术。再次向为艺术献身的鲷鱼致敬。
准备好生鱼片后，第二步就是最关键的金齑的做法，成也由它，败也由它。
这八和齑自然八种材料做成。当我准备将所有都切成粉末状时，大厨的一番话让我顿时觉得，做菜是如此有意味的一件事。
Let’s see the picture first.
先来看图
These are the shreds of orange peel.
这是橘皮切丝
These are the dices of salted and dried plum.
白梅切块
I： Why not in powder？
Song： Every material has its own feature and the shape of them should be cut according to it.
我：为什么不能都切成粉末呢
宋师傅：每种食材都有不同的个性，要根据它的品性切成不同的形状。
Salted and dried plum plays a major role in this and it should be boiled for a long time becoming a sauce to add sour taste. This is a completed one.
白梅在这金齑里的作用功不可没，它要熬制很长时间成为一种酸梅酱汁，替代醋增加酸度。这是熬制好的酸梅酱汁。
Others are in different shape according to their features. This is a family portrait of eight-integrated spices. From left to right： orange peel， millet， glutinous rice powder， ginger， salted and dried plum， sauce， salt， garlic.
I： Why use glutinous rice powder not polished round-grained rice？
Song： The function of the latter one is to increase the viscosity， and the former one has better effects.
其它的就是按照各自的品性做成不同形状。这是一张八和齑的全家福。从左至右依次是橘皮、粟米、姜末、白梅、酱汁、糯米粉、盐、蒜末。
我：咦，不应该是粳米么，怎么是糯米粉？
宋师傅：粳米在这里的作用就是为了增加粘稠度，用糯米粉比粳米效果更好。
This is the well-known golden spices in the legend.
The way is to put eight ingredients together.
I： What are the proportions of them？
Song： It can be decided by your taste. But the rules are， first： golden color should be realized by Millet， sauce and glutinous rice flour； second， the viscosity should be proper and the key is the use of glutinous rice flour.
这就是大名鼎鼎，金光熠熠的传说中的金齑了。
做法就是八种料调和在一起。
我：可是这八种料的比例是多少啊？
宋师傅：这完全是根据个人口味来调制，但是原则是第一：金黄色，要靠粟米、酱汁和糯米粉的色度来完成；第二，粘稠度要把握好，不太稠不太稀，主要是糯米粉的掌握。
When it was done， sashimi can be tasted in the spices. When put them together， you will immediately know the meaning of its name.
Do you want to know the flavor of travelling through time？ You should do it by yourself！
金齑调好以后，就可以将生鱼片放到酱汁里吃。它们摆在一起，你就会恍然大悟金齑玉脍四个字的含义。
想要知道吃在嘴里的那种穿越的味道么？那你只有自己亲自做了才知道！