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文中假定海面实际的海浪是由大小、周期、形状各异的一群外观海浪所组成,或者说是以外观海浪谱的外观表现来反映海面实际海浪的。还假定,每个外观海浪独立传播,独自受浅水作用,并不相互作用。据上述两点假定,作者提出了一种计算浅水波要素的方法。通过计算实例指出,在狂涛中,依本方法计算的平均波高比按我国“规范”方法计算的平均波高要偏低,而在狂浪以下海况中,则可能相反。应用本方法还可以得到一些“规范”方法无法得到的结果——浅水处的外观海浪谱与破碎带。
It is assumed that the actual ocean wave is composed of a group of appearance waves of different sizes, periods and shapes, or the appearance of the appearance of ocean waves reflects the actual sea waves. It is also assumed that each appearance of waves propagates independently, independently of the shallow water and does not interact. According to the above two assumptions, the authors propose a method of calculating the elements of shallow water. The calculation example shows that the mean wave height calculated by this method is lower than the average wave height calculated by China’s “standard method” in the wild and may be opposite in the sea wave below the mad waves. Applying this method, you can also get some results that can not be obtained by the “canonical” method - the appearance of ocean waves and crusts in shallow water.