时尚大师的选择

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  Lady Gaga的怪异服饰、Victoria Beckham的“恨天高”鞋、满街的骷髅头围巾,还有这几年被高矮胖瘦的女孩都疯穿过的低腰紧身牛仔裤……这些作品都是出自英国一位天才的时装设计师亚历山大·麦昆之手。他那些大胆、反叛的作品和创意无限又让人叹为观止的时装发布会让大家记住了他,也更让大家理解到时尚的深意——它的极致不仅是一个品牌的传奇,一类设计的风格,还是一种人生态度的传递——不屑中产阶级的矫情造作,又不低下自己优雅的头颅——这就是亚历山大·麦昆。
  
  Reporter: Born in the East End and the son of a taxi driver, Alexander McQueen was British fashion’s unlikely star. Three years ago the woman credited with discovering his talents committed suicide. Today the millionaire designer was found dead in his London home also, after reportedly committing suicide too. He was 40 years old.
  McQueen got his training in tailoring at a shop on Saville Row, and before long he was making suits for Prince Charles and Mikhial Gorbachev. He’s also designed clothes for the likes of Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss.
  Alexander McQueen’s achievements include a 1)CBE, being named British Designer of the Year four times, and there were a few other big-time
  2)gongs as well. A source at the designer’s office has confirmed his death saying “It’s a tragic loss for all involved.”
  
  British Fashion Press: I think the number one reaction is just shock. Everyone is so completely shocked. This seems to have come out…completely out of nowhere, and the most unexpected thing, he was so young–he was 40–and then obviously we’re just completely
  3)devastated to have lost such a huge talent. It’s almost like losing Jimi Hendrix for the music industry, and maybe it’s kind of 4)equivalent scenario where he was just this huge creative genius, and maybe his life couldn’t contain that genius in the global fashion scene. He was, I think, the designer of his generation, and is completely 5)irreplaceable. And very sadly, his mother died I think just over a week ago, eight days ago, and…and, yeah, he seemed to be very upset about that, and I know that he left a couple of messages on Twitter that suggested that he was understandably distressed, so, and possibly the two are connected.
  
  The highlights of Alexander McQueen’s career were his greatest fashion show moments. He was one of the absolute geniuses of creating an amazing catwalk show. I mean, some of the catwalk shows that I saw of his, well, I will…I will literally never forget. In the days when he used to show in London there was a show he did where in the middle of the catwalk was a big glass box, and he had the models inside this glass box, and these kind of boxes and cages inside the glass cage, and gradually through this butterflies escaped so that by the end of it the models were inside but you couldn’t see them because it was like they were surrounded by this kind of…in the middle of this butterfly house. It was really quite something. And there was one I remember in Paris in La Conciergerie, which is the place, the 6)dungeon, where they held Marie Antoinette before they chopped her head off, and he’s a show down there where the models were lead out by wolves onto the catwalk, and just some absolutely incredible fashion shows I don’t think anybody who was there will ever forget.
  
  I think Alexander McQueen’s legacy first and foremost is that he really flew the flag for British fashion. He’s probably the greatest genius that British fashion has produced in our generation, and he was somebody who put British fashion on the map and made it somewhere that people talked about as producing these absolutely original creative geniuses. I think he just embodied the idea of that’s what London stands for, and that’s been something which has been hugely important to British fashion. You take skinny jeans, which is something which is very much an ordinary street look these days; I think that’s something which actually you can trace a lot of that back to McQueen had this incredibly narrow, severe 7)silhouette on his catwalk, which he really kind of pioneered about 9 or 10 years ago, and at the time just looked insane and everybody thought ‘well obviously nobody except catwalk models would ever wear’—skinny jeans or, you know, tight leggings, and now, you know, walk into Zara and what do you see? For the British fashion industry, McQueen was someone who…his work is very emotional; it has a real emotional power, and it’s something that people really felt proud of and that the people felt really very moved by his shows, and it’s just a huge, huge loss.
  
  记者:出生于伦敦东区,一个出租车司机的儿子,这使亚历山大·麦昆看来不大可能成为英伦时尚界的明星。三年前,那位曾宣称发掘了他才能的女士自杀身亡。今天,这位坐拥百万身家的设计师被发现死在他伦敦的家中;据报道,死因也为自杀。他终年40岁。
  麦昆是在赛微乐街的一家店学到裁缝这门手艺的,没过多久他便已经为查尔斯王子和(前苏联领导人)米哈伊尔·戈尔巴乔夫制作西装了。他还为(名模)纳奥米·坎贝尔和凯特·莫斯等人设计过时装。
  亚历山大·麦昆的成就卓越:获封大英帝国司令爵士勋位,四次获英国年度最佳设计师称号,以及其他一些重要的奖项。他设计师事务所发布的消息证实了他的死讯:“对于所有相关人士来说,这是一个悲痛的损失。”
  
  《英国时尚新闻》(杂志):我想(人们的)第一反应就是震惊。所有人都震惊不已。这似乎……毫无征兆,让人始料不及——他还这么年轻,才40岁——失去这么一位极具天赋的设计师,很显然我们都悲痛万分。这几乎就像音乐界失去了吉米·亨德里克斯(注:美国天才的电吉他演奏者),或许就是这种相似的情况,都是极具创造力的天才;他是全球时尚界中的天之骄子,但或许他的生命却容不下。他是,我想他是他这一代设计师中的佼佼者,而且是不可替代的人物。非常不幸的是,他的妈妈,我想是大概一周以前,八天以前,去世了,而……而,是的,他看起来很难过;我知道他在推特网上留了几句话,可以看出他很自然是沉浸在悲痛中,所以,可能这两件事是有关联的。
  
  亚历山大·麦昆职业生涯的亮点便是他策划的那些伟大的时装秀。他绝对是能打造出夺人眼球的时装秀的天才之一。我的意思是,我看过他的一些时装秀,嗯,我是……我是永远都不会忘记的。他以前在伦敦举办走秀的时候,有一场他在T台的中间放了一个巨大的玻璃箱,他让模特走到里面去,里面放着装着蝴蝶的大大小小的玻璃盒子和箱子,然后蝴蝶慢慢地飞出来,到最后模特们全部进去了却看不见她们,因为她们的四周围满了蝴蝶。那真的是很有意思。我记得还有一场是在巴黎的裁判所监狱,也就是那个地牢,(皇后)玛丽·安托瓦内特被抓,并最终被斩首。在这场时装秀中,模特由狼带领着走上T台。此外还有一些不可思议的时装秀,我想任何一个在场的人都无法忘怀。
  
  我认为亚历山大·麦昆留给后人最大的财富,就是他真正举起了英伦时尚风格的大旗。他可能是我们这一代人中最具才华的英伦时尚设计师了。而且他把人们的目光吸引到英伦时尚风格上来,并由此催生了这些极具原创力的作品,人们对此津津乐道。我觉得他身上体现了伦敦所代表的时尚精神,而这对于英伦时尚界是相当重要的。以今时今日已经遍布大街小巷的紧身牛仔裤为例,我想大部分也可以归功于麦昆。他在九年、十年前就已经在他的时装秀中使用这种极其紧身的剪裁,创时尚界之先河。当时人们觉得这看起来简直就是神经病,所有人都以为:“呃,很明显除了走秀的模特以外没人会穿的。”紧身牛仔裤是如此,又或者,你知道的,紧身裤袜也是如此;而如今,当你走进Zara(注:国际时尚品牌),看见什么了?对于英国时尚业界来说,麦昆是一个……他的作品很煽情,有一种令人动情的力量,也是人们真正引以为傲的;他的时装秀也深深地打动了人们。这真是一个巨大的巨大的损失。
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