Seam Damage Control and Image Analysis for Cuprammonium Fabrics

• 作 者: ZHANG Yinjia JIA Xiaoshi CUI Lina QIU Yiping
• 机 构: College of Textiles and Apparel,Quanzhou Normal University,Quanzhou 362000,China;Graduate School of
• 出 处: 东华大学学报（英文版）
• 发表日期: 2021年6期
• 关键词: cuprammonium fabric stitch length seam damage fusible interlining inter-yarn fri

Cuprammonium fabrics are susceptible to punctuation of the sewing needle during the manufacturing processes of a garment. This type of punctuation splits the yarns in the fabrics, creates ladder-like sewing defects, and seriously affects the aesthetics of the finished garment. To minimize this seam damage, a sandwiched structure of cuprammonium fabrics with a fusible interlining was proposed to enhance the friction between the yarns in the fabrics. A measurement system was set up to evaluate the seam damage, and the effects of stitch length and seam width on the seam damage were studied. The seam damage tended to become less severe as the stitch length increased. The addition of the fusible interlining between two pieces of the fabrics could effectively suppress the seam damage. The seam margin should be below or equal to 5 mm for the stitch length of 2. 0 mm. An excessive seam margin might lead to a distorted seam.