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在建立近岸区不规则波成长模型的基础上,研究了波浪射线计算、传播能量守恒计算以及成长与衰减能量平衡计算的方法和格式处理,讨论了波数场、风场、水位和流场的确定方法。应用该模型计算了大亚湾的二维波谱场。与该海湾956波浪仪实测资料对比,表明该模型的计算结果与实测资料相符良好。特别指出的是,在该模型的计算结果中周期随波浪的传播而变化。
On the basis of establishing the model of irregular wave growth in the coastal area, the methods and formats of wave radiation calculation, propagation energy conservation calculation and growth and attenuation energy balance calculation are studied. The effects of wave number field, wind field, water level and flow field are discussed Determine the method. Applying this model, the 2D spectrum of Daya Bay is calculated. Compared with the measured data of the Gulf 956 wave instrument, it shows that the calculated result of the model is in good agreement with the measured data. In particular, the period in the calculation of the model varies with the propagation of the wave.