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摘要： 領美亚丝绸来源于安江新洲，被认为是“越南丝绸之王”，是一种传统的高档材料，其中包括农民的辛勤工作和来自柿子提取物的天然染色草药。20世纪70年代以来，在现代化的生产过程中，尼龙纤维和涤纶占领了市场，领美亚丝绸有消失的危险。文章通过历史文献对越南领美亚丝绸的历史、发展、衰退和复兴进行深入研究，介绍了采用双螺旋提取物作为主要原料的染色技术，将织物染成黑色，并建议将领美亚丝绸应用于纺织和时尚产业，作为可变市场的高品质材料。
关键词： 越南丝绸；领美亚丝绸；安江省；潭州；柿子果子；时尚品
中图分类号： TS94109；K826.3（333）文献标志码： B文章编号： 10017003（2018）01008806引用页码： 011304
Abstract： Considered as ‘the queen of Vietnam silk’， Lanh My A silk， originating from Tan Chau， An Giang， is a kind of traditional highclass materials containing the hard work of peasants and natural dyeing herbs from persimmon extract. Since the 1970s， nylon fiber and polyester have dominated the market instead of traditional silk， and Lanh My A silk is in danger of disappearing in modern production process. By historical documents and research， this article attempts to provide the indepth knowledge about the history， development， recession and revival of Lanh My A silk in Vietnam. The research introduces the dyeing technology in which double helix extract is used as primary materials to make fabrics black. Moreover， this article suggests the application of Lanh My A silk in textile and fashion industry as a high quality material for variable market.
Key words： Vietnam silk； Lanh My A silk； An Giang province； Tan Chau； persimmon fruit； fashion article
About the author： Do Khai Ly （1993）， Master student， Research direction： Textile chemistry and dyeing technology； History， culture and art of silk； Material design， fashion design， development trend of garment products.Generally speaking， the silk industry plays an important role for economic and cultural aspects in the society of Vietnam. Although it is not a leading major in economy， silk industry brings income for thousands of farmers， and for the sericulture zones. It makes significant profits. Moreover， for Vietnamese manufacturers and traders， silk and textile product is valuable foreign currency income. Besides， silk industry promotes rural economic restructuring of Vietnam to industrialization and modernization， reduces the proportion of agriculture， and increases the proportion of services and handicrafts.
Lanh My A silk created in Tan Chau， An Giang Province is a popular and wellknown material of Vietnam that has a development history through decades. With the comfortable characteristics for wearing， timeconsuming dyeing process and glossy black colour from persimmon extract， Lanh My A is rated as highclass silk fabric of Vietnam. Until present， there are very few journals about Lanh My A silk， such as An Giang Handicraft and Industry by Professor Le Minh Tung， The last artist of Lanh My A by journalist Nguyen Quynh Huong. However， they just focus on analyzing the weaving and dyeing technology of Lanh My A. On the basis of historical documents and data collected through research process， this article provides an overall knowledge about the history of Lanh My A silk， and its revival after difficult time and also recommends some application ways for modern textiles. 1概况
1Introduction
1.1越南丝绸业对领美亚丝绸的影响
1.1Effect of history of Vietnam silk industry on Lanh My A silk
From the 15th century， silk industry had contributed positively to economy of Vietnam. From 1858， the VietnamFrance war started. The French government appreciated the potential resources of sericulture and textiles in Vietnam. In 1886， French army established the Department of Silk in Ha Noi， and prepared the plans and strategies to raise and collect the mulberry leaves， silkworm eggs and cocoon in Northern Vietnam. From 1905， French government implemented the taxfree policies for textile products and built large silk centers in the whole country. By 1923， Indochina budgeted by French army for silk industry was divided as follows： Northern Vietnam 702.000 francs （125.200 USD）， Central Vietnam 123.000 francs （21.900 USD）， and Southern Vietnam 129.000 francs （23.000 USD）. This capital boosted the development of silk industry throughout Vietnam， and especially the new sericulture areas such as Tan Chau （An Giang Province） in Southern Vietnam， where the typical product was Lanh My A silk[1].
In the 1930s， factors of capital goods helped numerous traders in Tan Chau， An Giang who made good benefits from textile products and opened private textile workshops. Except domestic manufacture resources， farmers imported silkworm eggs and cocoon from England， France， Brasil and China. In 1945， Vietnam Revolution was successful， and the war ended. Silk industry was concerned and invested by government.
1.2潭州養蚕业的发展
1.2Developed period of Tan Chau sericulture zone
Located in the northwestern An Giang Province， Tan Chau Silk Town has been well known for longknown silk weaving. In July 1908， the very first Vietnam Silk Institute was established by French army in An Giang Province. Tan Chau was considered as the trade center of Southern Vietnam and Cambodia， located on the islet with suitable land and climate for growing mulberry and raising silkworm， which ensured the quality of manufacture material. In the most developed period of sericulture in Tan Chau， there were 60 textile workshops，250 weaving machines and 120 incubation houses in the area of 300 acres which occupied a half of total mulberry plant acreage of Southern Vietnam. Annual fiber output reached 4-6 thousand tons.
In the early 20th century， Tan Chau Silk Town was regionally famous for two famous silkworm brands. The first one is a company founded in 1909 in Long Hung ward， producing fine mulberry varieties for the whole region. The second company was founded in 1912， and destroyed in 1945 by the war. Until 1963， this firm was officially named Tan Chau Department of Sericulture[2]. Currently， Vietnam silk industry has benefited from ASEAN Free Trade Area （AFTA） and TransPacific Partnership Agreement （TPP） which remove the tax barriers for Vietnam textiles and garments， create conditions for these commodities to penetrate the broader market， integrate into the world economy， and contribute significantly to the importexport turnover and average income of Tan Chau.
2领美亚丝绸的发展线
2Timeline of Lanh My A silk
2.1领美亚丝绸的制造
2.1Manufacture of Lanh My A silk
From 1930 to 1937， with the support from Vietnam Silk Institute built and operated by French army in Tan Chau， An Giang Province， Lanh My A silk was created by Tan Chau silk farmers as the outstanding and expensive product line.
Primary manufacture material of Lanh My A silk is filament of the Bao Loc Plateau （Lam Dong Province）. Each meter of silk consists of 12.550 warp threads， weaved by the method of weaving satin silk， and put into the machine， large tubes， and looms. According to the requirements of the Vietnam Silk Institute in Tan Chau， silkworms were selected for propagation and technology dissemination to regional farmers for the sake of high yield and quality. At the same time， the Government also exempted land for planting areas and provided supportive policies. Originally， farmers cultivated the yellow pods， but later on， with the advancement of technology， they switched to whitegrained silkworms and hybrid pairs. These silkworms produced cocoon with higher yield and quality. However， silkworm raising was very hard especially at feeding step.
Cocoon treatment step is followed by incubation stage. Previously， traditional weaving technology was applied： putting cocoon into boiling water， then pulling the silk thread and attaching to the spinning wheel； stirring the chopsticks simultaneously， curling the silk threads... Later， the French experts from Vietnam Silk Institute instructed farmers to improve silkworm incubation technology by mechanism to enhance productivity and quality. The coarse silk was then removed from the bundles to form a large thread， and then they were weaved into fabric sheets（Fig.1）[3].
However， the shortcoming of Lanh My A silk is 100% handweaving， timeconsuming， and use of natural herbal dyeing materials， so it is impossible to produce with high quantity at the same time， which makes the price very high.
2.2柿子提取物的染色技術
2.2Dyeing technology from persimmon extract
Characteristics of persimmon： medium hardness； diameter 30-40 cm； white or gray boughs； sprouting leaves； oval shape； 5-8 cm×3-3.5 cm； no feather. Colour of fruit： green； smooth， spherical，1-2 cm in diameter. Biology and ecology： flower blooming season in January， September to April （next year）； productivity：100-500 kg fruit/tree/year. Leaves and fruits contain polyquinone which is used to dye black silk and nylon； beautiful and durable color； Fruit and seeds are also used in traditional medicine in Cambodia and Vietnam for hookworm and tapeworm（Fig.2）[4]. Dyeing process is followed by silk drying stage on drying yards or grass fields with 20 meters in length. Fabrics are dipped in persimmon extract and then dried in natural sunlight. They can be dyed for several times each day and then dried. The blackness of extract oil is permeated into the silk. This work is repeated for 40-45 days under the condition of normal weather. Meanwhile， every 5-7 days， farmers knit the fabric to create the gloss for silk by mechanical force.
2.3領美亚丝绸的消失
2.3Disappearance of Lanh My A silk
From 1975， farmers in Tan Chau stopped importing persimmon from Cambodia and started to plant it by seeds in hometown. With good capital and the great passion for Lanh My A silk and ambition to share experiences with local farmers， Mr. Tam Lang set up the largest textile workshop in Tan Chau（Fig.3）. He was also the last artist who tried to maintain Lanh My A silk in Vietnam. However， due to consequences of the war， with the demands of variable styles of textile products and affordable price for every class of consumers， polyester and nylon fiber gradually dominated domestic market， which led to hard competitions for Lanh My A Silk with high requirement of design and purchase. Due to labour effort for economy and society recovery after the war， satin silk like Lanh My A became a luxurious product line that could not be popular in the general market. 90% of farmers in Tan Chau pursued other agricultural professions to make living. Textile workshops were closed. Mulberry yards were cut to expand planting lands for fruits and cereals. Some of the last textile firms produced the nilon fabric for the market instead of traditional Lanh My A silk.
3Revival of Lanh My A silk
In 1990， Rose MorantFrench fashion designer came to Tan Chau to make research about potential textile materials. At that time， nearly 1 000 weaving looms in the sericulture zone were applied for nilon fiber textiles. Rose Morant with the passion for Vietnam silk， created a private project with Tam Lang to revive and preserve Lanh My A silk with higher quality than ever before. Tam Lang made efforts for manufacture， while Rose Morant ensured the output.
Rose Morant had strict requirements for silk quality. In the first year， during all stages including weaving， dyeing and finishing， only 5 errors are allowed for every 20 m silk. According to this request， Tam Lang had to change the material land to Bao Loc， Lam Dong Province， thanks to the appropriate climate for raising silkworms originating from Fuji Mountain of Japan. Each good silkworm could produce 700 m white cocoon. Highquality cocoon must be used to make the smooth surface of Lanh My A. At the textile workshop of Tam Lang， each cocoon was spun by professional workers， and weft yarn was folded from 8 silkworms， and twisted yarn from 10 silkworms. During the weaving stage， artists must always keep an eye on the machine in order to remove the cocoon in case of error and avoid wrinkled yarn for every milimet， then put the silk into boiled water to remove silkworm sap and started the dyeing stage（Fig.4）. Total manufacture time of Lanh My A silk is 4 months， and meanwhile the dyeing process is the most important stage.
In 1991， textile workshop of Tam Lang produced the first 500 m Lanh My A silk under the instruction and control of Rose Morant and French textile experts， but the quality of fabric was still not appreciated for tailor products. In 1992，1000 m Lanh My A silk was produced， and the quality reached 70% of requirements. From 1995， after many years of labour training for workers and artists， the perfect Lanh My A silk was created successfully， due to the analysis of Rose Morant. It was suitable for highclass textile and tailor products for French market [5].
4領美亚丝绸在休闲纺织品上的应用
4Application of Lanh My A silk in casual textiles
In the 20th century， Lanh My A silk was applied for only the pants of traditional dress in Vietnam（Fig.5）. This was considered as ‘luxurious’ item for highclass women because of high price and hard washing condition. The pants made of Lanh My A silk created the beauty of fashion for women in Southern Vietnam in 1960s.
In modern fashion， Lanh My A silk is also an ideal material. In the 20th century， women in Southern Vietnam used to wear the farming clothes named ‘ao ba ba’ to work hard in the wheal fields（Fig.6）. This image has become powerful inspiration for professional designers and theme for modern fashion collections. Based on the freeshape style of ‘ao ba ba’ with raglan sleeves， round neckline， two split lappets and two front pockets， casual items such as dresses， pants， skirts and dresses can be formed. Accordingly，90% of the textile materials are Lanh My A silk which is handmade completely. The remaining 10% of textile materials belong to other materials due to tailoring techniques.
According to demands of market in fashion design， glossy black colour of Lanh My A silk is sometimes difficult to apply for young customers. Therefore， dyeing process from natural herbal materials is able to be applied for dyeing stage of Lanh My A silk. Dyeing extract oil from green tea， coffee bean， mangosteen， gac fruit… is ideal for Lanh My A silk.
5结语
5Conclusion
This article summarizes the history of Vietnam silk industry， and then provides the detailed knowledge of the development through decades of Lanh My A silk， its manufacture technology and its revival after recession period. Dyeing technology and persimmon extract are analyzed in order to conclude the special characteristics of Lanh My A silk. Moreover， this article suggests some application ways of Lanh My A silk fabric for casual products to make it become a popular material of textile and garment industry.
In the upcoming journals， the research looks forward to collecting more detailed technology information about Lanh My A silk fabric and focusing design on this material.
参考文献：
Reference：
[1]LE T H. Vietnam Textiles History[M]. Ha Noi： Fine Art Publishing House，2017：11.
[2]LE M T. An Giang Handicraft and Industry[M]. An Giang Province： An Giang Newspapers Publishing House，2003：3132.
[3]NGUYEN V K. Tan Chau 1870-1964[M]. Ho Chi Minh City： Vietnam Youth Publishing House，1966：26.
[4]Botany Research and Development Group of Vietnam. Vietnam Industrial Plants[M]. Ho Chi Minh City： Botany Research and Development Group of Vietnam，2014：50.
[5]NGUYEN Q H. The Last Artist of Lanh My A[M]. Ho Chi Minh City： Vietnam Youth Publishing House，2016：2.
关键词： 越南丝绸；领美亚丝绸；安江省；潭州；柿子果子；时尚品
中图分类号： TS94109；K826.3（333）文献标志码： B文章编号： 10017003（2018）01008806引用页码： 011304
Abstract： Considered as ‘the queen of Vietnam silk’， Lanh My A silk， originating from Tan Chau， An Giang， is a kind of traditional highclass materials containing the hard work of peasants and natural dyeing herbs from persimmon extract. Since the 1970s， nylon fiber and polyester have dominated the market instead of traditional silk， and Lanh My A silk is in danger of disappearing in modern production process. By historical documents and research， this article attempts to provide the indepth knowledge about the history， development， recession and revival of Lanh My A silk in Vietnam. The research introduces the dyeing technology in which double helix extract is used as primary materials to make fabrics black. Moreover， this article suggests the application of Lanh My A silk in textile and fashion industry as a high quality material for variable market.
Key words： Vietnam silk； Lanh My A silk； An Giang province； Tan Chau； persimmon fruit； fashion article
About the author： Do Khai Ly （1993）， Master student， Research direction： Textile chemistry and dyeing technology； History， culture and art of silk； Material design， fashion design， development trend of garment products.Generally speaking， the silk industry plays an important role for economic and cultural aspects in the society of Vietnam. Although it is not a leading major in economy， silk industry brings income for thousands of farmers， and for the sericulture zones. It makes significant profits. Moreover， for Vietnamese manufacturers and traders， silk and textile product is valuable foreign currency income. Besides， silk industry promotes rural economic restructuring of Vietnam to industrialization and modernization， reduces the proportion of agriculture， and increases the proportion of services and handicrafts.
Lanh My A silk created in Tan Chau， An Giang Province is a popular and wellknown material of Vietnam that has a development history through decades. With the comfortable characteristics for wearing， timeconsuming dyeing process and glossy black colour from persimmon extract， Lanh My A is rated as highclass silk fabric of Vietnam. Until present， there are very few journals about Lanh My A silk， such as An Giang Handicraft and Industry by Professor Le Minh Tung， The last artist of Lanh My A by journalist Nguyen Quynh Huong. However， they just focus on analyzing the weaving and dyeing technology of Lanh My A. On the basis of historical documents and data collected through research process， this article provides an overall knowledge about the history of Lanh My A silk， and its revival after difficult time and also recommends some application ways for modern textiles. 1概况
1Introduction
1.1越南丝绸业对领美亚丝绸的影响
1.1Effect of history of Vietnam silk industry on Lanh My A silk
From the 15th century， silk industry had contributed positively to economy of Vietnam. From 1858， the VietnamFrance war started. The French government appreciated the potential resources of sericulture and textiles in Vietnam. In 1886， French army established the Department of Silk in Ha Noi， and prepared the plans and strategies to raise and collect the mulberry leaves， silkworm eggs and cocoon in Northern Vietnam. From 1905， French government implemented the taxfree policies for textile products and built large silk centers in the whole country. By 1923， Indochina budgeted by French army for silk industry was divided as follows： Northern Vietnam 702.000 francs （125.200 USD）， Central Vietnam 123.000 francs （21.900 USD）， and Southern Vietnam 129.000 francs （23.000 USD）. This capital boosted the development of silk industry throughout Vietnam， and especially the new sericulture areas such as Tan Chau （An Giang Province） in Southern Vietnam， where the typical product was Lanh My A silk[1].
In the 1930s， factors of capital goods helped numerous traders in Tan Chau， An Giang who made good benefits from textile products and opened private textile workshops. Except domestic manufacture resources， farmers imported silkworm eggs and cocoon from England， France， Brasil and China. In 1945， Vietnam Revolution was successful， and the war ended. Silk industry was concerned and invested by government.
1.2潭州養蚕业的发展
1.2Developed period of Tan Chau sericulture zone
Located in the northwestern An Giang Province， Tan Chau Silk Town has been well known for longknown silk weaving. In July 1908， the very first Vietnam Silk Institute was established by French army in An Giang Province. Tan Chau was considered as the trade center of Southern Vietnam and Cambodia， located on the islet with suitable land and climate for growing mulberry and raising silkworm， which ensured the quality of manufacture material. In the most developed period of sericulture in Tan Chau， there were 60 textile workshops，250 weaving machines and 120 incubation houses in the area of 300 acres which occupied a half of total mulberry plant acreage of Southern Vietnam. Annual fiber output reached 4-6 thousand tons.
In the early 20th century， Tan Chau Silk Town was regionally famous for two famous silkworm brands. The first one is a company founded in 1909 in Long Hung ward， producing fine mulberry varieties for the whole region. The second company was founded in 1912， and destroyed in 1945 by the war. Until 1963， this firm was officially named Tan Chau Department of Sericulture[2]. Currently， Vietnam silk industry has benefited from ASEAN Free Trade Area （AFTA） and TransPacific Partnership Agreement （TPP） which remove the tax barriers for Vietnam textiles and garments， create conditions for these commodities to penetrate the broader market， integrate into the world economy， and contribute significantly to the importexport turnover and average income of Tan Chau.
2领美亚丝绸的发展线
2Timeline of Lanh My A silk
2.1领美亚丝绸的制造
2.1Manufacture of Lanh My A silk
From 1930 to 1937， with the support from Vietnam Silk Institute built and operated by French army in Tan Chau， An Giang Province， Lanh My A silk was created by Tan Chau silk farmers as the outstanding and expensive product line.
Primary manufacture material of Lanh My A silk is filament of the Bao Loc Plateau （Lam Dong Province）. Each meter of silk consists of 12.550 warp threads， weaved by the method of weaving satin silk， and put into the machine， large tubes， and looms. According to the requirements of the Vietnam Silk Institute in Tan Chau， silkworms were selected for propagation and technology dissemination to regional farmers for the sake of high yield and quality. At the same time， the Government also exempted land for planting areas and provided supportive policies. Originally， farmers cultivated the yellow pods， but later on， with the advancement of technology， they switched to whitegrained silkworms and hybrid pairs. These silkworms produced cocoon with higher yield and quality. However， silkworm raising was very hard especially at feeding step.
Cocoon treatment step is followed by incubation stage. Previously， traditional weaving technology was applied： putting cocoon into boiling water， then pulling the silk thread and attaching to the spinning wheel； stirring the chopsticks simultaneously， curling the silk threads... Later， the French experts from Vietnam Silk Institute instructed farmers to improve silkworm incubation technology by mechanism to enhance productivity and quality. The coarse silk was then removed from the bundles to form a large thread， and then they were weaved into fabric sheets（Fig.1）[3].
However， the shortcoming of Lanh My A silk is 100% handweaving， timeconsuming， and use of natural herbal dyeing materials， so it is impossible to produce with high quantity at the same time， which makes the price very high.
2.2柿子提取物的染色技術
2.2Dyeing technology from persimmon extract
Characteristics of persimmon： medium hardness； diameter 30-40 cm； white or gray boughs； sprouting leaves； oval shape； 5-8 cm×3-3.5 cm； no feather. Colour of fruit： green； smooth， spherical，1-2 cm in diameter. Biology and ecology： flower blooming season in January， September to April （next year）； productivity：100-500 kg fruit/tree/year. Leaves and fruits contain polyquinone which is used to dye black silk and nylon； beautiful and durable color； Fruit and seeds are also used in traditional medicine in Cambodia and Vietnam for hookworm and tapeworm（Fig.2）[4]. Dyeing process is followed by silk drying stage on drying yards or grass fields with 20 meters in length. Fabrics are dipped in persimmon extract and then dried in natural sunlight. They can be dyed for several times each day and then dried. The blackness of extract oil is permeated into the silk. This work is repeated for 40-45 days under the condition of normal weather. Meanwhile， every 5-7 days， farmers knit the fabric to create the gloss for silk by mechanical force.
2.3領美亚丝绸的消失
2.3Disappearance of Lanh My A silk
From 1975， farmers in Tan Chau stopped importing persimmon from Cambodia and started to plant it by seeds in hometown. With good capital and the great passion for Lanh My A silk and ambition to share experiences with local farmers， Mr. Tam Lang set up the largest textile workshop in Tan Chau（Fig.3）. He was also the last artist who tried to maintain Lanh My A silk in Vietnam. However， due to consequences of the war， with the demands of variable styles of textile products and affordable price for every class of consumers， polyester and nylon fiber gradually dominated domestic market， which led to hard competitions for Lanh My A Silk with high requirement of design and purchase. Due to labour effort for economy and society recovery after the war， satin silk like Lanh My A became a luxurious product line that could not be popular in the general market. 90% of farmers in Tan Chau pursued other agricultural professions to make living. Textile workshops were closed. Mulberry yards were cut to expand planting lands for fruits and cereals. Some of the last textile firms produced the nilon fabric for the market instead of traditional Lanh My A silk.
3Revival of Lanh My A silk
In 1990， Rose MorantFrench fashion designer came to Tan Chau to make research about potential textile materials. At that time， nearly 1 000 weaving looms in the sericulture zone were applied for nilon fiber textiles. Rose Morant with the passion for Vietnam silk， created a private project with Tam Lang to revive and preserve Lanh My A silk with higher quality than ever before. Tam Lang made efforts for manufacture， while Rose Morant ensured the output.
Rose Morant had strict requirements for silk quality. In the first year， during all stages including weaving， dyeing and finishing， only 5 errors are allowed for every 20 m silk. According to this request， Tam Lang had to change the material land to Bao Loc， Lam Dong Province， thanks to the appropriate climate for raising silkworms originating from Fuji Mountain of Japan. Each good silkworm could produce 700 m white cocoon. Highquality cocoon must be used to make the smooth surface of Lanh My A. At the textile workshop of Tam Lang， each cocoon was spun by professional workers， and weft yarn was folded from 8 silkworms， and twisted yarn from 10 silkworms. During the weaving stage， artists must always keep an eye on the machine in order to remove the cocoon in case of error and avoid wrinkled yarn for every milimet， then put the silk into boiled water to remove silkworm sap and started the dyeing stage（Fig.4）. Total manufacture time of Lanh My A silk is 4 months， and meanwhile the dyeing process is the most important stage.
In 1991， textile workshop of Tam Lang produced the first 500 m Lanh My A silk under the instruction and control of Rose Morant and French textile experts， but the quality of fabric was still not appreciated for tailor products. In 1992，1000 m Lanh My A silk was produced， and the quality reached 70% of requirements. From 1995， after many years of labour training for workers and artists， the perfect Lanh My A silk was created successfully， due to the analysis of Rose Morant. It was suitable for highclass textile and tailor products for French market [5].
4領美亚丝绸在休闲纺织品上的应用
4Application of Lanh My A silk in casual textiles
In the 20th century， Lanh My A silk was applied for only the pants of traditional dress in Vietnam（Fig.5）. This was considered as ‘luxurious’ item for highclass women because of high price and hard washing condition. The pants made of Lanh My A silk created the beauty of fashion for women in Southern Vietnam in 1960s.
In modern fashion， Lanh My A silk is also an ideal material. In the 20th century， women in Southern Vietnam used to wear the farming clothes named ‘ao ba ba’ to work hard in the wheal fields（Fig.6）. This image has become powerful inspiration for professional designers and theme for modern fashion collections. Based on the freeshape style of ‘ao ba ba’ with raglan sleeves， round neckline， two split lappets and two front pockets， casual items such as dresses， pants， skirts and dresses can be formed. Accordingly，90% of the textile materials are Lanh My A silk which is handmade completely. The remaining 10% of textile materials belong to other materials due to tailoring techniques.
According to demands of market in fashion design， glossy black colour of Lanh My A silk is sometimes difficult to apply for young customers. Therefore， dyeing process from natural herbal materials is able to be applied for dyeing stage of Lanh My A silk. Dyeing extract oil from green tea， coffee bean， mangosteen， gac fruit… is ideal for Lanh My A silk.
5结语
5Conclusion
This article summarizes the history of Vietnam silk industry， and then provides the detailed knowledge of the development through decades of Lanh My A silk， its manufacture technology and its revival after recession period. Dyeing technology and persimmon extract are analyzed in order to conclude the special characteristics of Lanh My A silk. Moreover， this article suggests some application ways of Lanh My A silk fabric for casual products to make it become a popular material of textile and garment industry.
In the upcoming journals， the research looks forward to collecting more detailed technology information about Lanh My A silk fabric and focusing design on this material.
参考文献：
Reference：
[1]LE T H. Vietnam Textiles History[M]. Ha Noi： Fine Art Publishing House，2017：11.
[2]LE M T. An Giang Handicraft and Industry[M]. An Giang Province： An Giang Newspapers Publishing House，2003：3132.
[3]NGUYEN V K. Tan Chau 1870-1964[M]. Ho Chi Minh City： Vietnam Youth Publishing House，1966：26.
[4]Botany Research and Development Group of Vietnam. Vietnam Industrial Plants[M]. Ho Chi Minh City： Botany Research and Development Group of Vietnam，2014：50.
[5]NGUYEN Q H. The Last Artist of Lanh My A[M]. Ho Chi Minh City： Vietnam Youth Publishing House，2016：2.