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总有一种味道会穿越时光,留在舌尖上。总有一种滋味会走过岁月,留在味道中。印象最深刻的,是母亲做的水晶冻,晶莹,剔透,透明,有一种绵软的质感,看上去很诱惑,吃下去凉爽润滑,鲜香不腻。做“冻”很麻烦,工艺很复杂,大多是民间口口相传的做法。比如做皮冻,要选上好的猪皮,把上面的毛毛一颗颗摘净,那是费功夫又磨人的活儿,母亲会拿上小镊子和放大镜,认真细致严谨的样子,像个老学究,不亚于做一件艺术品。把细细的猪毛根根拔除干净,然后放在锅里氽水去土腥味,然后把上面的油一点一点刮净,切成小块放在锅里熬。熬字四点水,一个熬字,里面含有多少艰辛和等待的意思,不熬干这些水,如何成冻?熬,其实也是整个做冻的过程中至关重要的一步,熬大了,水收干了,冻的口感硬,不润不滑。熬轻了,则太嫩不成形,所以这个尺度很难把握。很多事情其实只可意会,不可言传,中国的美食大抵也是如此,同样的东西,不同的人做出来有不同的味道,这中间的学问很深奥。做冻也是如此,加多少水,放多少皮,熬到什么程度才能炼皮成冻,完全要看个人的感觉。汤熬好后,把切成小块的猪皮捞出,只留下那些浓浓的汤汁,那汤质感粘稠,成乳白色,置于阴凉处,隔天再看,液体变成了固体,晶莹剔透,
There is always a taste that crosses the time and stays on the tip of the tongue. There is always a taste will go through the years, stay in the taste. Impressed most is the mother made crystal frozen, crystal clear, transparent, there is a soft texture, looks very tempting to eat cool and lubricated, delicious and not greasy. Do “frozen ” is very troublesome, the process is very complicated, mostly folk practice of word of mouth. Such as making frozen, to choose a good pig’s skin, the plush above the net pick, it is time-consuming effort Kung Fu, mother will take the tweezers and magnifying glass, carefully rigorous look like An old school, no less than to do a work of art. The fine pig hair root unplug clean, and then put the pot of water to soil smell, and then the above oil little by little net, cut into small pieces in the pot boil. Boil word four water, a boil word, which contains many hardships and the meaning of waiting, do not boil dry the water, how to become frozen? Boil, in fact, is the freezing process of the whole crucial step boil, water Dried up, frozen taste hard, not smooth and not slippery. Boil light, too soft shapeless, so this scale is difficult to grasp. In fact, many things can only be interpreted, unspeakable, the Chinese food is probably the same, the same thing, different people have different tastes out of this middle of learning is very esoteric. To do the same is the case of cold, add more water, put how much skin, boil to what extent can skin into a cold, depends entirely on personal feelings. After the soup is boiled, the pigskin cut into small pieces removed, leaving only those thick soup, soup texture viscous, milky white, placed in the shade, the next day look, the liquid into a solid , Crystal clear,