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车水马龙的城市，每天繁杂喧嚣的汽车鸣笛声不绝于耳。陶渊明“结庐在人境，而无车马喧”的静谧似乎已成为一种奢望。而在意大利的五渔村，它那地中海式的宁静祥和与当地人的慵懒自得肯定会让你忘掉时间的存在。让我们一起走进世外桃源般的五渔村吧!
I'm up early in my favorite village on the Italian Riviera, as the morning sun touches the tip of Vernazza's bell tower and greets a peaceful world. The air is damp, cool and refreshing as I wander downhill, passing underneath the train tracks. I enjoy the fact that the town is traffic-free, and realize that my favorite Italian towns are all this way.
FIAT-free Italy... just the way I like it.
The Cinque Terre--as this stretch of five towns along the Italian Riviera is called--is located in northern Italy between Pisa and Genoa, and it's the under-appreciated alternative to the French Riviera. There's not a museum in sight, just sun, sea, sand (well, pebbles), wine, swimming, hiking, and pure, unadulterated~ Italy. Each town fills a ravine with a lazy hive of human activity-- locals and visitors. While the Cinque Terre is now well discovered, I've never seen happier, more relaxed travelers.
Until the advent of tourism in this generation, the towns were poor and remote. Today, tourism stokes4 their economies and each is well connected by hourly trains. But traditions are resilient, there's not a chain store anywhere, and each of the five villages comes with a distinct dialect and its own proud heritage.
当晨曦轻抚韦尔纳扎钟楼的尖顶，对这个宁静的世界敞开怀抱的时候，我在意大利里维埃拉最喜欢的村庄里，一大早就起来了。从下面的铁轨穿过，我朝山下漫步，湿润、凉爽、清新的空气扑面而来。我喜欢这里没有汽车行驶，并且意识到我最喜欢的那些意大利小镇都是这样的。
没有菲亚特汽车的意大利……正是我所喜欢的。
五渔村——意大利里维埃拉沿线的这五个小镇——坐落于意大利北部比萨和热那亚之间，堪比法国里维埃拉，但还没有得到人们的充分认识。在这里，目之所及，没有博物馆，只有阳光、大海、沙滩(当然，还有鹅卵石)、美酒、游泳、徒步旅行和纯粹地道的意大利。每个小镇的沟壑里都满是慵懒的人群，有当地人，也有游客。虽然五渔村现在已被很好地开发，但我仍未看到比这里更开心、更放松的旅客。
在这—辈人发展旅游业之前，这些村镇都贫穷而偏僻。如今，旅游业推动了其经济的发展。按小时出发的火车把每个村镇都紧密地连接在一起。然而，传统的力量依然强大，这里没有任何连锁商店，五渔村的每个村庄都有其独特的方言和引以为傲的历史遗产。
To preserve the Cinque Terre's natural and cultural wonders, Italy has declared the region a park. Visitors buy a cheap day pass6 to hike the scenic trail that laces together the unique communities.
Riomaggiore--the most substantial non-resort of the five towns-is a fascinating tangle of pastel homes that lean on each other like drunken sailors. A cliff-hanging trail leads from the beach to a hilltop botanical garden.
The next town, tiny Manarola, is a tumble of buildings down its ravine to the harbor. You can hike up to Punta Bonfiglio--for a bar on a bluff between the cemetery and the sea-or enjoy tasty treats born right here: pesto on your focaccia, washed down by crisp local wine sprinkled with Mediterranean twinkles. Talk about going local.
Corniglia is a quiet town--the only one of the five not on the water. From the train station, a footpath zigzags up nearly 400 stairs to the hilltop town. According to legend, a Roman farmer originally settled Corniglia, naming it for his mother, Cornelia. Residents claim Cornelia's son produced a wine so famous. Still, today, wine remains the town's lifeblood. Following the pungent smell of ripe grapes into an alley cellar, I find a local who lets me dip a straw into his keg.
为了保护五渔村的自然和文化景观，意大利已宣布该地区为公园。游客们购买一张便宜的一日游通行券就可以沿着风景优美的小径徒步旅行；这些小径通往各座风格迥异的乡村。
里奥马焦雷，是五个村镇中最不像旅游胜地的地方。色彩迷人的房子如喝醉酒的水手般乱糟糟地相互倚靠在一起。一条蜿蜒在悬崖峭壁间的小路从海滩一直延伸到山顶的植物园。
接下来的小镇，是小小的马纳罗拉，那是一片从峡谷向下延伸到港口的杂乱建筑。你可以徒步爬到蓬塔·邦菲利奥，去一个建在公墓和大海之间的断崖上的酒吧里坐坐，或者尽享当地原产的美味：在佛卡恰面包上抹上香蒜酱，痛饮地中海的闪烁星光飘洒在上面的清爽的当地美酒，谈论当地的风俗民情。
科尔尼利亚是一座安静的小镇，是五个村镇中唯一不临海的。从火车站出发，沿着一条之字形的小路往上走大概400级台阶就可以到达这个山顶小镇。据传说，一个罗马农民最先在科尔尼利亚定居，并以他的母亲科妮莉亚的名字命名了这个地方。当地人称，科妮莉亚的儿子发明了一种非常出名的美酒，直至今天，美酒仍然是小镇的生命线。循着成熟葡萄浓郁的芳香走人小径旁的一个酒窖，我看见了一个当地人，他让我将吸管插入他的酒桶中，品酌美酒。
Monterosso, the Cinque Terre's only resort town, comes with cars, hotels, rentable beach umbrellas, crowds, and a thriving late-night scene.
With the closest thing to a natural harbor--overseen by a ruined castle and an old church--Vernazza is the jewel of the Cinque Terre. Its action is at the harbor, where you'll find restaurants, a bar hanging off the edge of the castle, a breakwater with a promenade, and a street market every Tuesday morning. While the old men putter with their tough little boats, the day's last bit of sunshine seems to sweep the old women and children into a warm corner in front of the church.
Leisure time is devoted to the evening stroll, as locals wander lazily together up and down the main street. After three days in town--sitting on a bench, gelato in hand, enjoying the endless "ciaos" and parade of neighbors--I feel a part of the scene.
I caps my Cinque Terre days on the breakwater with a glass of dessert wine. At midnight, the Mediterranean is darker than the sky--except for bobbing lanterns on the horizon. By night, old-school fishermen are seducing anchovies into their nets. By day, the same guys are seducing me with a way of life that refuses to give in to the modern world.
蒙特罗索，是五渔村中唯一名副其实的度假小镇，于是随之而来的便是汽车、旅馆、可租用的沙滩太阳伞、拥挤的人群和繁荣的午夜胜景。
从一座废弃的城堡和一个古老的教堂上俯瞰，韦尔纳扎，作为离天然海港最近的地方，是五渔村的珠宝。它坐落在港口边，你在这里会看到餐馆、一个依着城堡边缘而建的酒吧、一个建有长廊的防波堤和一个每周二上午开放的马路市场。当老人们驾驶着他们牢固的小船四处闲逛的时候，白天的最后一抹余晖似乎将老妇人和小孩们都集中到了教堂前温暖的角落里。
当地人的休闲时光都交给了晚间的散步，大家一起在小镇的主路上来回闲散地漫步。我坐在长凳上，手捧冰淇淋，耳边飘过无尽的“你好”，欣赏着散步的邻居们列队走过——就这样呆了三天，我感受到了小镇风景的一部分。
在防波堤上品酌着餐后甜酒，我结束了在五渔村的生活。午夜时分，除了海平面上不停晃动的提灯外，地中海的海面比天空还要黑。到了夜晚，老派的渔夫们会引诱鳀鱼进入他们的网中；而白天，同样是这些拒绝现代生活的家伙，以其远离尘嚣的生活方式引诱我一再停留。
I'm up early in my favorite village on the Italian Riviera, as the morning sun touches the tip of Vernazza's bell tower and greets a peaceful world. The air is damp, cool and refreshing as I wander downhill, passing underneath the train tracks. I enjoy the fact that the town is traffic-free, and realize that my favorite Italian towns are all this way.
FIAT-free Italy... just the way I like it.
The Cinque Terre--as this stretch of five towns along the Italian Riviera is called--is located in northern Italy between Pisa and Genoa, and it's the under-appreciated alternative to the French Riviera. There's not a museum in sight, just sun, sea, sand (well, pebbles), wine, swimming, hiking, and pure, unadulterated~ Italy. Each town fills a ravine with a lazy hive of human activity-- locals and visitors. While the Cinque Terre is now well discovered, I've never seen happier, more relaxed travelers.
Until the advent of tourism in this generation, the towns were poor and remote. Today, tourism stokes4 their economies and each is well connected by hourly trains. But traditions are resilient, there's not a chain store anywhere, and each of the five villages comes with a distinct dialect and its own proud heritage.
当晨曦轻抚韦尔纳扎钟楼的尖顶，对这个宁静的世界敞开怀抱的时候，我在意大利里维埃拉最喜欢的村庄里，一大早就起来了。从下面的铁轨穿过，我朝山下漫步，湿润、凉爽、清新的空气扑面而来。我喜欢这里没有汽车行驶，并且意识到我最喜欢的那些意大利小镇都是这样的。
没有菲亚特汽车的意大利……正是我所喜欢的。
五渔村——意大利里维埃拉沿线的这五个小镇——坐落于意大利北部比萨和热那亚之间，堪比法国里维埃拉，但还没有得到人们的充分认识。在这里，目之所及，没有博物馆，只有阳光、大海、沙滩(当然，还有鹅卵石)、美酒、游泳、徒步旅行和纯粹地道的意大利。每个小镇的沟壑里都满是慵懒的人群，有当地人，也有游客。虽然五渔村现在已被很好地开发，但我仍未看到比这里更开心、更放松的旅客。
在这—辈人发展旅游业之前，这些村镇都贫穷而偏僻。如今，旅游业推动了其经济的发展。按小时出发的火车把每个村镇都紧密地连接在一起。然而，传统的力量依然强大，这里没有任何连锁商店，五渔村的每个村庄都有其独特的方言和引以为傲的历史遗产。
To preserve the Cinque Terre's natural and cultural wonders, Italy has declared the region a park. Visitors buy a cheap day pass6 to hike the scenic trail that laces together the unique communities.
Riomaggiore--the most substantial non-resort of the five towns-is a fascinating tangle of pastel homes that lean on each other like drunken sailors. A cliff-hanging trail leads from the beach to a hilltop botanical garden.
The next town, tiny Manarola, is a tumble of buildings down its ravine to the harbor. You can hike up to Punta Bonfiglio--for a bar on a bluff between the cemetery and the sea-or enjoy tasty treats born right here: pesto on your focaccia, washed down by crisp local wine sprinkled with Mediterranean twinkles. Talk about going local.
Corniglia is a quiet town--the only one of the five not on the water. From the train station, a footpath zigzags up nearly 400 stairs to the hilltop town. According to legend, a Roman farmer originally settled Corniglia, naming it for his mother, Cornelia. Residents claim Cornelia's son produced a wine so famous. Still, today, wine remains the town's lifeblood. Following the pungent smell of ripe grapes into an alley cellar, I find a local who lets me dip a straw into his keg.
为了保护五渔村的自然和文化景观，意大利已宣布该地区为公园。游客们购买一张便宜的一日游通行券就可以沿着风景优美的小径徒步旅行；这些小径通往各座风格迥异的乡村。
里奥马焦雷，是五个村镇中最不像旅游胜地的地方。色彩迷人的房子如喝醉酒的水手般乱糟糟地相互倚靠在一起。一条蜿蜒在悬崖峭壁间的小路从海滩一直延伸到山顶的植物园。
接下来的小镇，是小小的马纳罗拉，那是一片从峡谷向下延伸到港口的杂乱建筑。你可以徒步爬到蓬塔·邦菲利奥，去一个建在公墓和大海之间的断崖上的酒吧里坐坐，或者尽享当地原产的美味：在佛卡恰面包上抹上香蒜酱，痛饮地中海的闪烁星光飘洒在上面的清爽的当地美酒，谈论当地的风俗民情。
科尔尼利亚是一座安静的小镇，是五个村镇中唯一不临海的。从火车站出发，沿着一条之字形的小路往上走大概400级台阶就可以到达这个山顶小镇。据传说，一个罗马农民最先在科尔尼利亚定居，并以他的母亲科妮莉亚的名字命名了这个地方。当地人称，科妮莉亚的儿子发明了一种非常出名的美酒，直至今天，美酒仍然是小镇的生命线。循着成熟葡萄浓郁的芳香走人小径旁的一个酒窖，我看见了一个当地人，他让我将吸管插入他的酒桶中，品酌美酒。
Monterosso, the Cinque Terre's only resort town, comes with cars, hotels, rentable beach umbrellas, crowds, and a thriving late-night scene.
With the closest thing to a natural harbor--overseen by a ruined castle and an old church--Vernazza is the jewel of the Cinque Terre. Its action is at the harbor, where you'll find restaurants, a bar hanging off the edge of the castle, a breakwater with a promenade, and a street market every Tuesday morning. While the old men putter with their tough little boats, the day's last bit of sunshine seems to sweep the old women and children into a warm corner in front of the church.
Leisure time is devoted to the evening stroll, as locals wander lazily together up and down the main street. After three days in town--sitting on a bench, gelato in hand, enjoying the endless "ciaos" and parade of neighbors--I feel a part of the scene.
I caps my Cinque Terre days on the breakwater with a glass of dessert wine. At midnight, the Mediterranean is darker than the sky--except for bobbing lanterns on the horizon. By night, old-school fishermen are seducing anchovies into their nets. By day, the same guys are seducing me with a way of life that refuses to give in to the modern world.
蒙特罗索，是五渔村中唯一名副其实的度假小镇，于是随之而来的便是汽车、旅馆、可租用的沙滩太阳伞、拥挤的人群和繁荣的午夜胜景。
从一座废弃的城堡和一个古老的教堂上俯瞰，韦尔纳扎，作为离天然海港最近的地方，是五渔村的珠宝。它坐落在港口边，你在这里会看到餐馆、一个依着城堡边缘而建的酒吧、一个建有长廊的防波堤和一个每周二上午开放的马路市场。当老人们驾驶着他们牢固的小船四处闲逛的时候，白天的最后一抹余晖似乎将老妇人和小孩们都集中到了教堂前温暖的角落里。
当地人的休闲时光都交给了晚间的散步，大家一起在小镇的主路上来回闲散地漫步。我坐在长凳上，手捧冰淇淋，耳边飘过无尽的“你好”，欣赏着散步的邻居们列队走过——就这样呆了三天，我感受到了小镇风景的一部分。
在防波堤上品酌着餐后甜酒，我结束了在五渔村的生活。午夜时分，除了海平面上不停晃动的提灯外，地中海的海面比天空还要黑。到了夜晚，老派的渔夫们会引诱鳀鱼进入他们的网中；而白天，同样是这些拒绝现代生活的家伙，以其远离尘嚣的生活方式引诱我一再停留。