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《穿戴题纲》一书全方位、多角度记录了清代宫廷戏曲演出的盛况,是研究清代宫廷戏曲曲目及戏曲服饰、道具不可或缺的重要著作。近年来,专家、学者就《穿戴题纲》的成书年代进行了广泛、深入的研究,主要集中在嘉庆二十五年和道光二十五年两种观点上。本文通过对清宫戏本的考察,发现戏本中避道光帝(?)宁之“宁”字讳的戏目比比皆是,宁字或改清,或改明,或改静,或缺笔,而《穿戴题纲》中遇“宁”字时,没有避讳,直书为宁,故认为《穿戴题纲》为嘉庆二十五年的版本。《穿戴题纲》记录了清宫常演的戏目484出,并将这些戏目中演员的穿戴,乃至所用道具分别记录在案,本文选取了部分有代表性的清宫旧藏戏曲服饰和《穿戴题纲》的记录进行比对研究,通过二者的异同,对清宫戏曲服饰的特征、发展、变化进行考察,进而揭示清代戏曲服饰发展、演变的轨迹和规律。
The book “Wearing the title” recorded all-round and multi-angle records of the grand performance of the palace opera in the Qing Dynasty. It is an indispensable and important book for the study of the opera of the Qing Dynasty and the opera costumes and props. In recent years, experts and scholars have conducted extensive and in-depth studies on the book age of “wearing the title”, focusing on two perspectives of Jiaqing twenty-five years and Daoguang twenty-five years. Through the investigation of the script of the Qing dynasty, this essay finds that the characters of the word “Ning” in the scriptures are all over, Lack of pen, and “wearing the title” in the case of “Ning ” when the word, there is no taboo, straight book rather, so that “wear title” for Jiaqing twenty-five years version. “Wearing the title outline” records the 484 appearances of the Qing court performances, and the performers in these scenes wear, and even props used were recorded in the case, this selection of some of the representative Qing Dynasty Tibetan opera costumes and “wear Title of the ”comparison records of the records, through the similarities and differences between the Qing opera costumes of the characteristics, development and changes were inspected, and then reveal the Qing Dynasty opera costumes development and evolution of trajectory and law.