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以前圈里曾经起过一次争论,缘于对“妈妈味”的看法。一些人认为“妈妈味”是一种低端的饮食审美趣味,需要不断的品尝和锤炼,升华为“世界性”的口味,对所有美味可以作以客观的观察和评价。这或许有一定道理吧,但这世界本就是人的江湖,人就是一种主观动物,纯粹的客观哪里见得到,吃饭所带来的快乐又何谓高低之分。所以不妨时常让舌头“低端”点,好好品味妈妈烹制的食物的味道,好好享受家乡山水赋予食物的性灵。我曾经遇见两个法国人,他们对于“家乡味”的观点让我惊奇。一个是原前门23号院内布鲁宫的老板丹尼尔·布鲁,他刚刚在英国权威餐厅杂志《Restaurant》2015年度评选中获
In the past there had been an argument in the circle, due to the “Mommy Taste” view. Some people think that “Mommy Taste” is a kind of low-end dietary aesthetic taste that requires constant taste and tempering, subliming into a “cosmopolitan” taste and objective observation and evaluation of all deliciousness. This may have some truth, but this world is human rivers and lakes, people are a subjective animal, where the pure objective see, the joy of eating what is the difference between high and low. Therefore, we might as well often let the tongue “low end ” point, taste the taste of food cooked by mother, and enjoy the spirituality of food provided by the hometown landscape. I once met two Frenchmen, and I was surprised at their view of “hometown flavor.” One was Daniel Brewer, owner of the former Brunei House at No. 23 Hospital, and he was recently awarded the 2015 Restaurant of the UK’s leading restaurant magazine