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2006年11月10日,这是杭州茶人难忘的日子。
杭州于2005年被国内十家茶业权威机构授予中国茶都称号,时隔一年后,在由国家劳动保障部主办、在杭举行的全国茶艺技能大赛上,杭州的茶艺能手从来自全国20余个省、市、自治区的80余名选手中脱颖而出,获得了囊括前三名的全部金奖,并荣获“全国茶艺技术能手”称号。
这是中国茶界的幸事,也是中国茶都杭州的幸事。特别是这三位全国茶艺技术能手,全都来自杭州茶馆服务一线的茶艺师,而且都是30岁以下的年轻人。在倡导茶为国饮的今天,在全国茶馆行业蓬勃发展的时刻,我们从当今年轻的茶艺技术能手身上,看到了我国优秀传统的茶文化得到了新的弘扬与传承。陈芳、袁非、沈黎明三名全国茶艺技术能手,成了今天茶艺行业的话题。
陈芳来自杭州“你我茶燕”,是这家茶馆的茶艺总监,这位来自杭州郊县的姑娘在茶楼泡茶已有10余个年头。早在上个世纪末,她在杭州举办的一次茶艺活动上就被选评为杭州的十佳茶艺小姐,八九年过去了,这次参加全国比武的她,表演的是“九曲红梅”。杭州素以西湖龙井闻名,而她则以杭州西湖乡的九曲红梅茶为载体,用茶、用艺、用茶席和她娴熟的技能,让人透过茶香想起咏梅西湖的林和靖和陆游。中国美院的一名知名教授看了她的比武表演录像后说:整套茶艺表演是一曲茶与文化结合最优美的舞曲。
袁非是一位在东海舰队当了五年海军的复员军人,参军前他在杭州“湖畔居”茶馆当服务员,五年后复员,他让父亲陪同回到工作过的茶楼,找到老总要求仍回茶楼当茶艺师,茶楼老总自然喜欢,他在部队入了党又爱茶,茶楼也委他以重任。他参加比武表演的是祁门红茶,茶艺队的教练告诉他这是小平同志夸奖过的茶,他翻阅了大量的资料,深挖祁门红茶的历史,表演的茶席上他向老师借了徽墨、歙砚,还特意准备了“黄山松”。他在沏泡祁门红茶结束时讲到:祁红茶香让他想起了徽墨与歙砚的千转百回,想到了中国的山水国画,想到了蕴味无穷的徽州文化……他获奖之后,单位的老总对记者说:袁非爱茶,心中有茶,是他获奖的基本点。
沈黎明,也在西湖边的“湖畔居”茶楼工作,他优秀的茶艺曾吸引了无数中外游人。有一次,德国汉堡的一名议员作客茶楼被他的精湛茶艺吸引了,2006年“汉堡中国节”他被邀请去汉堡作茶艺表演,在汉堡市政大厅他还受到这名议员的接见。不过为了中德文化交流活动,他失去了这次全国比武赛事的初选,杭州市茶楼业协会和浙江省茶叶学会为此专门为他给大赛组委会打了报告,组委会根据沈黎明的实际情况,破例同意他参加全国比武决赛。他每天的接待任务多,但他一边不耽误工作,一边复习应知理论,又抽闲练沏茶、摆台席。功夫不负有心人,他的龙井茶礼表演也赢得了众多专家的好评。一位业内了解了沈黎明的专家说:“小沈泡茶已整整8个多年头了,他每天的工作都在10个小时以上,他泡一年茶可抵人家三年!”是的,到过“湖畔居”茶楼的人都会看见他穿着青衣长衫、佩着团徽,忙上忙下地给客人殷勤泡茶的情景。成绩来自辛劳,技术缘于勤练,在小沈的身上让人看到了中国茶人的希望。
三名全国茶艺技术能手花落杭州,这给杭州这个中国茶都增添了光彩。有了他们,茶都的茶一定会更香。
如今,全国茶艺技能比武技术能手的表演已被刻录成光盘流向全国,走向世界。技术能手们勤学苦练、爱茶敬业、无私奉献的茶人精神和他们的故事正在被人广泛传诵。
Three National Gold Medals for Hangzhou
By Jia Ji
November 10, 2006 is an unforgettable day for tea professionals in Hangzhou. On the day, three tea-service professionals in Hangzhou captured the three gold medals in a national tea art and skills contest organized by the Ministry of Labor and Social Security.
It was no coincidence that the top-level contest was held in Hangzhou and the three gold medalists were from Hangzhou. Back in 2005, Hangzhou was designated as China’s capital of tea by top ten authoritative tea organizations in the country. One year after the honor, more than 80 tea art performers from all over the country gathered in Hangzhou to compete for three gold medals.
The three gold medalists are all in their 20s and work in teahouses in Hangzhou. The honors signify the city’s success in carrying on the country’s fine tradition of tea art.
Chen Yanfang works as a tea art supervisor at a teahouse named You and I, Tea and Swallow in Hangzhou. The girl from a suburban county of Hangzhou has worked in teahouses for more than ten years. In the late 1990s, she was awarded one of the top ten girls for tea arts service in a citywide competition. This time, she staged a performance named Red Plum Blossom. Though Hangzhou is known for the Dragon Well Tea, she used Red Plum Blossom tea to display her adept service. The performance integrated tea, tea sets, service ritual and her skills and made enjoying a cup of tea at a teahouse a highly pleasurable experience. A professor with the China Academy of Fine Arts watched the tape of her performance at the competition and enthused that her performance was like a musical piece that combined tea and culture.
Yuan Fei had worked at the Lakeside Teahouse before he joined the navy. After the five-year service, he came back to the Lakeside Teahouse again. He feels strongly attached to tea and things involved with tea. His ritual performance at the competition was about Qimen Black Tea, a famous brand produced in Anhui Province. He learned from the coach that Deng Xiaoping had a liking for this tea. To prepare himself for the competition, Yuan read up books about the history of the tea and cultural traditions in Anhui province where the tea has always been popular. He even used ink and inkstand produced in Anhui province as his props. The general manager of the teahouse attributed the gold medalist’s success to his passion for tea in general.
Shen Liming is Yuan Fei’s colleague at the Lakeside Teahouse. His service at the teahouse attracts customers. One day, a councilor from Hamburg, Germany, who was enjoying tea at the teahouse, was fascinated by Shen Liming’s service ritual. He invited Shen to perform his tea art at the 2006 Chinese Festival in Hamburg. However, Shen Liming’s visit to Hamburg overlapped the preliminaries at the national competition. The Hangzhou Teahouses Guild and Zhejiang Tea Institute jointly petitioned to the organizing committee for Shen’s participations in the final. The organizing committee bent the rule for Shen. After busy preparations, Shen presented the Dragon Well Tea performance at the tea art competition. An industrial insider commented, “He has been working as a teahouse waiter for eight years. A year of his work experience equals three years of others!” Shen is a big attraction at the Lakeside Teahouse. Customers can always see him there, wearing a traditional Chinese gown and filling teacups for customers.
Naturally, tea professionals in the city are proud of the three gold-medalist colleagues who are believed to have added honor to Hangzhou, China’s capital of tea.
(Translated by David)