墨北六城行纪:远逝的白银之路

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多年以来,拉丁美洲一直是我最向往的旅行目的地,魔幻现实主义、印第安人的远古文化、热情似火的拉丁民族、生生不息的革命……那里的一切都像一块巨大的磁石始终吸引着我。因此,去年当我得以到纽约学习,心里就开始盘算着我的拉丁美洲之旅,到了有将近一个月的圣诞假期时,我便迫不及待地向最接近美国的拉美国家墨西哥进发了。我们计划从美国边境城市阿尔帕索(El Paso)出发,乘坐墨西哥的城际大巴,一路向南一个城镇一个城镇地经过,直至墨西哥首都墨西哥城。这条墨西哥中北部的线路,根本算不上是热门的旅游线路,和墨西哥东南部尤卡坦半岛的海滩和印加古迹上挤满美国游客相比,这些主要以破旧的殖民时期建筑构成的城镇可以说是游客罕至,在很多地方我们简直就是多年以来仅有的中国游客。然而当我们花了半个多月,把墨北这些城镇一个一个走下来,却深深感受到,也许中北部才是真正的墨西哥:大漠,戈壁,高原,仙人掌……每个城镇都有着它们独特的墨西哥范儿:有开着皮卡车白天到处巡视的荷枪军警的“罪恶之城”——华雷兹(Juarez);世界上最小型狗种吉娃娃的原产地Chihuahua;曾经的银矿之都,墨西哥民族革命英雄Pancho Villa被害地Parral;可以入住两百多年且又十分廉价的古建筑旅馆的Durango;色彩斑斓的房屋依山而建绵延不绝的嬉皮至爱的山城Zacatecas;拥有最精彩死亡文化展示的死亡博物馆Aguascalientes,和群山环抱的荒凉鬼镇Real de Catorce……这些当初因开采银矿而名噪一时的殖民时期古城,墨西哥最初的工业文明发源地,以及让人肃然起敬的关于死亡的文化古迹,酝酿着墨西哥文化中最深沉的那部分。 Latin America has been my favorite destination for many years, magical realism, the ancient culture of Indians, the passionate Latin nation, the endless revolution ... Everything there is always like a giant magnet With me. So when I was able to study in New York last year, my mind started counting on my trip to Latin America and almost a month’s Christmas vacation I could not wait to get closer to the United States, the Latin American country, Mexico. We plan to depart from El Paso, a border city of the United States, and take the inter-city bus of Mexico all the way to a town in the south to the town of Mexico City, the capital of Mexico. This northern-central route in Mexico is hardly a tourist attraction at all, and is dominated by dilapidated colonial buildings, as compared to the beaches of the Yucatan Peninsula in southeastern Mexico and the Indian tourists crowded with American tourists It can be said that visitors rarely, in many places we are simply the only Chinese tourists over the years. However, when we spent more than half a month walking down these cities and towns in northern Mexico one by one, we deeply felt that maybe the central north was the real Mexico: the desert, the desert, the plateau, the cactus ... each town had them Unique Mexican Range Children: “Guilty City” with Helmet Operators who are driving pickup trucks around the day - Juarez; Chihuahua, the world’s smallest dog breed Chihuahua; Silver Capital, Pancho Villa, the hero of the Mexican Revolutionary Revolution Parral; Durango, an ancient architectural hotel that has been able to stay for more than two hundred years and is also very cheap; colorful houses mountainous, Zacatecas; Aguascalientes, the death museum with the culmination of the death culture, and the Real de Catorce, a desolate ghost town surrounded by mountains ... the ancient colonial cities that were once famous for their silver mining, the birthplace of Mexico’s original industrial civilization, and Awe-inspiring cultural monuments of death brewing the deepest part of Mexican culture.
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